guitar

ween still rocks face...

 

Try learning a joe satriani song.

 

www.rukind.com

 

i agree, this was the first song i learnt, i think all new guitarists should start on this easy level


:H

 

you can play 'stairway'? not just the intro, but the whole thing? because blackbird is much easier than stairway....i can see blackbird.....but stairway?

 

Stairway really isn't all that hard... The full version is just a length, fairly easy, yet challenging song for most beginners.

 

yeah i know al of stairway, once you get the routine of the first few minutes of stairway its repetition for the next 5 minutes then the solo is somewhat hard to learn then you get used it, i also know purple haze, and the intro to little wing by hednrix. p.s. anyone know a good looking and sounding acoustic (not an acoustic-electric) for like 200- bucks. i have an SG right now and im looking for a good carry around guitar.

 

Seagull, Art and Lutherie, Simon and Patrick... basically anything by LaSiDo/Godin. Google it or look the reviews up on harmony central, all of them have non-laminate tops and have a hell of a reputation for what money you pay. You can't beat the money and they're made in Canada. I also reccomend Garrison... Most guitar shops don't carry them in the United States, but ebay is always a good bet. I wouldn't worry about getting ripped off or anything for a $200 guitar purchase, but as long as the seller's feedback is trustworthy.

 

dude, if you can play stairway, try and figure out ween's Transdermal Celebration, or Buckingham Green.. those are some pretty cool songs..

 

Check out Donnybravos.com. My sis uses it all the time.

 

you want axilla part 2 to answer your question.
i like to play bluegrass music. try alltabs.com
for some good phish and rock, try therhombus.com

 

whats a non-laminated top(im new to acoustics and i want to go to the music shop to see whats there but dont want to be sold into what a worker sais) the segull guitars look nice, i found a nice one on ebay for 400, your shure most of this brand are well made?

 

Yeah, anything by the company LaSiDo is a really great deal (brands - seagull, art and lutherie, simon and patrick, norman etc.) If you want, check the reviews on them on harmony central's website. They're one of the best guitars when it comes to a value to cash ratio on the market.

Okay, there's different kinds of laminate. If you see "select spruce, select nato, tonewood" or anything with "select" in it, it's laminate. Laminate woods do not age. It's plywood. It doesn't matter if it's Quilted Maple or the shittiest Agathis or Nato wood on the planet. It's plywood. They're sandwiched layers of wood that they use in most cheaper guitars. If you're going into the $400 or so range, you at least want to try to get a guitar with a solid spruce, cedar, cherry, etc. top. The back and sides are generally still going to be laminates, but that doesn't matter so much as the soundbaord/top, as the sides and back have less impact on the tone of the guitar than the top does (basic acoustic engineering).

On top of that, solid woods have an opening up process that generally takes from six months to three years or so to complete. You want to make sure to get a "dampit" soundhole humidifier and keep it in the soundhole when it's stored in the case. If you have it on a wall hanger (I like to keep my most used guitars in string swings), you want to get a humidifier and a hygrometer so you can maintain the humidity. If it gets too high or low, it can cause a number of problems uncluding the bridge becoming unglued due to high humidity, the neck could warp due to high humidity, (be cautious if you live in the south, in salt air, and near a coastal area). If it's dry, your top can crack. If you don't take it to a guitar luthier and have it clamped and glued/patched, it can ruin the guitar if it expands. The fretboard can also dry out and shrink causing the frets to hang and cut your hands. Guitar Center does not know how to properly care for their acoustics as their salespeople generally will take advantage of you. There's a lot more to it than most people think, people are unaware and they don't learn these things they can ruin a good guitar and most people can't afford to be taking it to a luthier for $500 worth of clamping, steam presses, sealing, a neck reset, etc. There's more than meets the eye.

By the way, the more you play the guitar and the harder you play it (without damaging it), the quicker it will open up, and the better it will sound when it has opened up. The opening up process has to do with the vibration wearing in the glue at the seams. It's like breaking in a baseball glove. Once it's broken in, it'll sound different and better than new. Laminate wood guitars don't work that way... solid woods do. Generally, Martins have the best sound, from experience, after opening up. My '74 has a number of cracks (70s were a bad decade for american guitars as CBS owned Fender, Martin was on strike and their output was cranked to the maximum while using large rosewood bridgeplates instead of small maple bridgeplates, Bob Taylor was just founding Taylor Guitars after working with, I believe, American Dream, in Lemon Grove, California, Norlin owned Gibson). But, even though my D-35 has sealed cracks galore, the former owner was Randy Wood, one of the US's most famous luthiers, and it opened up well, as he did a lot of hard bluegrass stuff. Anyway, if I went over anyone's head in there, sorry, I tend to get carried away on this subject.

 

so if i keep in in the case when im not playing it and keep a humidifier in the hole, i should have all thoes problems right? i live in PA so in the winter its gonna be cold and dry and summer gets real hot and humid. and all i need is a solid soundboard and the rest can be laminated right? (thanks for all this info i wouldnt have known anything about what to look for)

 

sorry spelling- so if i keep in in the case when im not playing it and keep a humidifier in the hole, i shouldnt*** have all thoes problems right?

 

Yeah, if you go to a guitar shop (a good one), just ask them about damp its and humidifiers. Watch those big places like Guitar Center, though, they don't know a whole lot and some just want to sell you whatever so they can make a comission. If you keep it in the case, you have less to worry about, but I like leaving mine in the open so I can grab it, so I use a conventional Honeywell humidifier and I have a hygrometer on top of my amps. I use a damp it in my Guild 12 string, because I keep it in the case. Other than that, if it's $300-$500 I'd look for at least a solid soundboard. Once you get above that territory, start looking for a solid back, and once you get to $700-800, look for all solid woods. The best value for an all solid wood guitar, in my opinion, is the special edition Martin D-15s that Musicians Friend got Martin to build...

Otherwise, the Taylor 1xx-2xx series is good for a nice guitar to start on as well as anything made by LaSiDo.

 

This orsino fellar knows what he is talking about folks listen up!

 

yeah i asked my guitar teacher and dhe diddnt even know about solidwoods or anything and the guy working at dave phillips new what i was talking about but he couldnt really tell what guitars had it or not, he tried selling me an ibanese but it looks like im gonna end up saving 700 bucks for a martin, i cant wait to get it and learn some eric clapton songs.

 

little sadie- the jerry version. Its sounds really good and hard to play if you do it fast, but really it is easy. go to rukind.com for any jerry/dead songs tabs.

 

Yeah, a lot of people are just ignorant or just really full of shit and don't deserve to work in guitar shops. By the way, ibanez guitars are also full of shit, for the most part...well, unless it's an electric (R series or higher) and you want to play hair metal. But that's really the only case... For the most part, it's logical to what guitars have it and don't have it. Most Ibanez guitars and almost every other overseas guitar isn't solid wood. Wise choice...I'd rather just see if I have the willpower to wait it out and get something reliable and nice to play on instead, as it'll generally be easier to play on if you can afford it. If you're considering clapton stuff, you may want to go with an 000 (auditorium) sized body, IF you can find one for a low price. I like the 000-15 model, but they're harder to find than a dreadnought. Dreadnoughts aren't as balanced as 000 models, which is why Clapton plays an 000 for Blues stuff. I play a D-35 because I play at a Folk and Bluegrass festival once a year and the rules are that you can't use an amplifier, so it has to be mic'd with a PA system. So I need something with good volume that can stand out over banjos and other instruments.

Though, I must say, I do like some of the Ibanez artcore jazzboxes, but I've never considered buying one, just because they're import guitars and for the most part, they're difficult to repair if you need parts... Which is why I play a Fenders for the most part, now. I'm selling my Les Paul. I'm tired of the electrical problems with it and I don't feel like playing with it. I think I just got a lemon, but Fenders are easy to fix as their parts are interchangable. Though, a lot of people give the company shit, but I like their electrics now, for the money. Gibsons are great if you find one that doesn't have any defects. They tend to have quality control issues, sometimes and they're heavy as hell. The old Les Pauls were a lot lighter because they used Hondura(s/n) Mahogany and as that got more expensive to use on les pauls, they started moving to a different species of Mahogany.