my overland trips towards India in 1972 and 1975

Published by old tiger in the blog old tiger's Blog. Views: 481



posting nr.1==Germany-Austria-Yougoslavia

Hmmm..trip overland to India..need to get my thoughts together to write this blog part..
i travelled to India twice overland==this is my first trip done in 1972
well..I worked a bit in the black after I came back from Scandinavia
some fellow wanted his house front painted..I made a mess of it
but I cared a shit..i got the bucks..don't recall exactly when I started..
my God..i left my dad came to see me off..I stood 1 h..bloody hell in my own village
to get a ride out..towards Verviers-Aachen(Germany)took my 4 rides..
in Germany hitch hiking is a piece of can get from raststatte
to next raststatte=mostly service stations on the highway as well..
reached quite a good distance on day one..i think I slept in the bushes of some service
rastatte around morning..wash up in the toilet facilities..
ride towards Munchen(Bavaria)I got picked up by some hippies
they lived in a house in Munchen..stayed overnight there...
next morning..I noticed..things were stolen out of my rucksack..mainly food
I took from Belgium to get through the first week of travell..some saucages,
jam,and some other things..bloody fuckers anyway..someone was hungry apparently?
got a ride towards Austria..Salzburg..awww..loveley scenery in Austria..
it's my favorite country in Europe..after Norway
i suppose i slept somewhere in Austria that day..don't know where..
bloody was 1972?and lots of folks were on the way to mystical INDIA..
Ravi Shankar had been on Woodstock with his sitar..
Harrison wasin Rishikesh was a trip towards the unknown..the mysterious!!
my first goal was reaching a ride in Austria with a German from Berlin..
travelling in a hippie van..he was going to Greece..
we managed to get just into Yougoslavia that day..bit after Maribor..
will tell more later on..if you all are interested that is?

posting nr.2==Yougoslavia-Greece-Turkey

So..after i got picked up by this fellow from Berlin..we reached Maribor
and stopped at a parking spot near morning we drove on to Beograd..
capital of Yougoslavia..this fellow wanted to stay a day there..
I wanted to reach Greek border as soon as we quit there..
Beograd is on the Sava an Danube river..told you before..big cities..well..
not my favorite cup of tea really..on the outskirts of Beograd I got picked up
by 3 crazy Austrians from Graz..travelling in a little car..2 guys+a chick...
real weird people..their destination was O.K.for me..
we drove to Nis..and then to Bulgarian border...but were kicked back on the border..long hair??visa??
don't even remember it?point was..we drove back to Skopje and Gevgelija..border Greece..
awwww..Greece..loved this place..went via Thessaloniki-Kavalla-Komotini-Alexandropoulis towards Ipsala..
border Greece-Turkey..then to Kesan-Tekirdag-finally we reached Istanbul..
and wooooh..that's a city to my heart...stayed 3 night there..will tell you later on..
hippies came together in Eminonu in pudding is the link..
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posting nr.3==Istanbul(Turkey)

So..finally in Istanbul..I loved this's on the crossroads
see this link to give you any idea about Istanbul city== Your text to link here...
crossroad of Europe-Asia..Galata bridge..fresh fish roasted..the vendors..
the noises..crowds..Sirkeçi railway station on the Europe side..
just a warning..beware of pickpockets and moneychangers..
lots of people got ripped off early seventies..first day did some
touristical sightseeing..Blue Mosque(Sultanahmet)reallly impressive..
Kapali Carsi(Big bazar)is a real hustle and bustle of little shops..
i took a ferry on the Bosphorus river..real nice..crossing to Uskudar
on the Asian side..what i always regret up till now is that I did not
visit Topkapi Sarayi(palace of sultan)well..i was not into museums
these days,I guess..later on again I did Istanbul on my second overland
trip to India..again no Topkapi..well..I've heard it's wonderfull??
evening we went into Lale Pudding shop..lots of hippies came together..
we exchanged ideas there..some came back from India...
and all they said was...woooh..INDIA..groovy..Americans on the move..
there was a message board in Lale where one could leave some notice
for friends..or share a ride towards India in a hippie VW bus..
I decided for myself to travell by bus,train,boat..whatever came up..
second day..gathered some information about bus travelling..
i decided to take a bus to get a koltuk(numbered seat)
free water,some sweets,Turkish music all along..and lots of curious Turks..
but really friendly..I managed to learn the basic sentences in Turkish..
and they really appreciate day 3 I was getting ready to leave
Istanbul..i visited the bus station..reserved my seat..hitch hiking in Turkey
well..some have done it..but it was risky,I heard..and transport..
so dirt I booked that bus towards Ankara..more later on.

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posting nr.4==Ankara-Erzurum-Dogubayazit-Bazargan=border Iran..

Ankara..I didn't like this place too much..huge bus station..very confusing..
I had to switch bus there direction Erzurum(Anatolia)it's a long journey from Istanbul..
but one advantage hotel necessary..because these buses go day and night..
I missed some scenery between Istanbul-Ankara-Yozgat perhaps..
but once Erzincan-Erzurum in reach it was O.K..loveley scenery..
Erzurum smaller bus to Agri..then a shared taxi towards(dolmus)to border
town an overnight stay in a sleazy hotel...
I had met a French couple going to this area of Turkey is very remote and backward..
maybe nowadays they have seen more weird travellers there
they could not understand that 2 guys travelling with a chick was possible?
we had to lock our hotelroom doors..real paranoid situation
Dogubayazit is near Mount Ararat...according to the legend the Ark of Noah stranded there..
well..I've never been a religious didn't care..
but the Ararat mountain range looks nice though..
it flirts with the border regio of Iran-Armenia-Turkey..Mount Ararat is bit over 5000m high
i believe the bible legend says that the ark stranded here(Urartu)
some mountain climbers have gone in search for the ark..without result..
next morning I took a dolmus to Bazargan together with these French..
border is called Bazargan..not to much hassle on the Iranian side..but the Turks gave us a thorough rucksack search..we took a shared taxi to Mako..if I remember well?first place in Iran..and better roads then in Eastern town was'll tell more later on..O.K?
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posting nr.5==Iran different then Turkey..I don't recall much from the bus ride
between Tabriz-Qazvin-Tehran..but I must say..buses well organised,
comfortable Tehran..I stayed 4 days there..because I had
to make visa for India these days Amir Kabir hotel was the place
to be to meet hippies travelling..but i didn't stay there..found a little hotel
in some side street..where it was full of only foreigners as well..great people..
Tehran is surrounded by mountains..and lies at an altitude of 1200m..
big wide streets..mostly paralell these days the Shah was still ruling..
shops were filled with French perfumes..foreign stuff as well..oil money..
you know..I think today it's a total different picture?
The big bazaar of Tehran is absoluteley fantastic to stroll through..
lots of curious Iranians wanted to know whether I was American,English??
I got invited for tea and served in a pot and
it's some stew like mixture of chickpeas was very cheap...and tasty as well..
other type of food is pillav/nan/mutton..which is a rice dish with flat bread..
Iran was very days I spent my time going to the embassy of problem for a visa..but it took 2 days..
Tehran is a hectic place..lots of's a central point for all traffic to any destination in Iran..
my itinerary was Qum-Yazd-Kerman-Bam-Zahedan..
never went to Isfahan..and that's a pity..beautiful mosques there..
just ask Dharma(Kevin)he has been there very recently..
i picked up a few words of Farsi..real nice language with strange sounds..
gar kodjast??meant where the railwaystation..kheyly khoub=thank you..
I did travell by bus all the way towards Zahedan...
will tell you more later on...

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posting nr.6==Tehran-Zahedan

So..finally left Tehran by bus..booked a ticket straight to Kerman..
via Qum..which is an important stronghold of pilgrimage(religion)
the trip to Kerman was loveley..very hot...and very arid landscapes..
specially around Yazd..Kerman is a small and very ancient city..
in the middle of nowhere..big and very interesting bazaar..
I was the only foreigner on the bus..but the people were extremely friendly..
I stayed overnight in a small bazaar of Kerman..
you should not miss..very hectic..Kerman is famous for carpet weaving...nice designs.. still a nice stretch by bus..
we got frequent control points from Iranian police..the Shah in his days had a secret police force called savak..
but these checkpoints were probably only ordinary traffic control..
I came 2 days to early in Zahedan..train to Quetta runs only once a week..
so i stayed at a sort of campsite run lodging...there were other foreigners
waiting for the iron horse(train)to Baluchistan..I remember I stocked up
food..mostly sardines..and fruits in tins(peaches,cherries)
it was a rough desert train ride to Quetta..a trip I remember well till up today..
finally the train my ticket 2nd class..I guess 1st class was not available..
lots of funny folks to board this train..Baluchi tribals with a very big knife on their belts..
they were using a compartiment of the train as a cooking facility..
made their own etc..they smoke a lot of weed as well..but I didn't liked to get high there..tell you more later

some things you should know BEFORe you enter Iran.. Your text to link here...

a you tube on Kerman Your text to link here...

posting nr.6==train trip Zahedan-Quetta(Baluchistan)

So..finally this train was moving towards the Iranian-Paki border..
border town for Iran was Mirjaveh..lots of sun..
border town for Pakistan was Taftan if I recall well..this train trip goes through
desert arid area..little outlets like Nokkundi-Dalbandin-Nushki..
I recall mostly as stopping places to get a tea or some snacks for this difficult journey..
in Nokkundi villagers wait 1 week to meet this train...
to sell their stuff eggs,vegetables..fruits..snacks..tea..biscuits..
the whole thing..i remember..the train had to stop in the heat of the desert..because..there was sand on the tracks..
which had to be shovelled was terrrible hot as well..
but still..what an adventure it was..a real desert trip..I remember it vividly still now
finally we reached Quetta railway station..wandered into town..
and my surprise a Swedish missionary living on the outskirts of Quetta..
he took me in..for 2 days..I guess he felt left out in this damned town..
he was a protestant..lovely wife..I recall his daughter as well..a teenager..
he told was very hard to live in Pakistan to win souls..religion..
oh my..oh a Muslim conservative place like Quetta..he said he had to deal with lots of corruption..
easy game in this part of the world..luckily he got financial aid directly from Sweden..
this fellow dropped me into Quetta next morning..
wanted to see what this town was about..nothing special really..
I bumped into a Californian guy..together we had to go to the local police station to get registered for entering the area..
lots of tea..waiting..and Paki bureaucraty..well..well..still..Quetta town got some charm..
you see tribals in traditional dress..with these funny baggy trousers..

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I went to the railway station to get information about travelling towards Lahore
in Pakistani Punjab..long train journey..will tell you later on..

posting nr.7==travelling by train to Lahore(Punjab)

I remember this sunny morning in Quetta..train to Lahore..
soon after Quetta..comes Kolpur and the Bolan mountain pass..
rough country..wooh..almost 100km.of mountain scenery...
then was so bloody hot..
train travelling can be quite a hassle sometimes..people constantly
bother you..they're so damned curious..hundred times..
what's your name,mister??where are you from??are you English?
do you like Pakistan???well..this area is reall countryside Pakistan..
I felt once I reached Jacobabad..I reached the Indian subcontinent..
the rivers Indus and Sutlej cross there..real nice little dormant villages..
typical scenery..forever grifted in my mind...the paddy rice field with the
farmer in loin cloth..pulling his so nice though..
Multan-Sahiwal-Lahore...booh..very hot..lots of tea...and drinks..
finally reached of the Pakistani Punjab..
very interesting city...bit dirty around railway Station...noisy..
overpopulated...beggars..hassles..pickpockets...a test for nerves..
got a room in the fucking Youth Hostel of Lahore..bit out of the city..
but quiet..I had nearly the whole hostel for myself..helpfull warden..

posting nr.8==Pakistani-Indian border(Wagah)

So..Lahore goodbye..Taxi to Wagah this border crossing
is something to remember..Pakistani side is called Attari,I believe??
Indian side is called between every morning a whole ceremony..
by Pakistani/Indian border patrol..well..well..changing of the guards??
a you tube on this ceremony==why is this necessary on daily basis??
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India/Pakistan are playing cat/mouse games for decades..finally if you put
a Punjabi from to a Punjabi from Amritsar..they look bloody the
same..wooh..why this hate??long story..which I'm not going to tell here
border crossing through this border was a real hassle for me..
it took me 2 hours to walk trough both borders..bureaucratic behaviour??my ass..
It was a relief for me to reach Amritsar..
I can write some pages..Punjab..golden all should SEE it..
The Sikh religion..well..very good..they are NOT allowed to cut their hair
woooh???hippies??they follow the 5 k's..I'll explain in a link below..
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posting nr.9==Amritsar-Dehli..

So..from Amritsar railway station..took a cycle rickshaw..
towards the Golden Temple..stayed in Gurdwara Ram Das Niwas..
as said food and lodging..don't expect too much..
from free food..these people serve dal out of a bucket..
served on get some chappatis(flat bread)as well..
it's called langar... Your text to link here...
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I recall I got the shits in Amritsar..nothing serious really..
beware of eating in cheap roadside stalls..
I left my chappals(sandals)outside Golden Temple..and went in..
woooh...real life time experience..
you must cover your head with some scarf..
very nice entrance towards the Temple..
inside is the Grant Sahib=holy book of the Sikhs..
chanting and reading all the'll get some prashad as well..
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so..this was my first impression of India..I damned liked it..
I like speaking to people..about life...about anything..
and these Indians..were so damned curious...woohhhah...
I got myself some dahi(fresh curd)in the morning around the temple..
I met a couple of hippies..the fellow was really dysenteria..
they stayed in the gurdwara as well..and I felt sorry for this guy..
beware of your health conditions while travellling in India
After 2 days..i booked a ticket to New Delhi(train)damned cheap..
will tell you later..New Delhi turned out to be a very interesting city..

posting nr.10==New Delhi

so..New of's a real huge place..
I booked a retiring room in Old Delhi railway Station..dirt cheap
Old Delhi is crowded,dirty,full of has to get used to it..
of course Jami Masjid and Red fort dominate the scenery..never went
into Red Fort..but I went into Jami Masjid..Moghul architecture by Shah Jahan
Chandni Chowk and Kinari Bazar are a maze of streets and little alleys..
to noisy it was but's an experience to see all these colours..
smell all these unknown herbs etc..most of the foreign travellers stay either
in New Delhi Paharganj area or closer to Connaught
i took a riksja to New of these crazy scooter 3 wheelers..
they drive like mad..these riksja wallah's know their way..
but..quick...and efficient..they take you where one wants to go..
Connaught Place...consists of 2 ring roads around a central park area..built by the British..
I guess by Luytens??architect??or was it Russel?anyway...
Janpath Road is where the tourist office is situated..I picked up a free map..went to GPO..
and found a Gurdwara Sikh temple stay for next day..I moved back to the hospitability of the Sikhs
and yes..that day..I had a lassi..kind of refreshing drink..
later..i heard..on the Holi festival==sometimes they put bhang in it(hasj)woooh...
they didn't that day..that bhang lassi can give strange reactions...
more later on...stayed 4 days in New Delhi.. before I moved to Agra..
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posting nr.11==Agra

ook the train towards train travelling in India..
real big network..divided in parts like Eastern railways..etc..
in beginning 70' and reservation was sometimes a real hassle..
you could book a berth in 2 tier..3 tier..A/C class..2nd class..1st class..
i always went for 2nd class...and these passenger category trains...
wooh..real adventure sometimes...Agra from Delhi is only a few hours..
I recall reaching Agra Cantonment Railway Station early morning..
directly a load of riksha wallah's offering a ride to Taj Mahal etc..
a real hassle sometimes these rickshaw folks..
even if you don't want a ride with them..they keep on bothering you..
they get commision from certain hotels and shops..
if they can get you there..I decided to walk to the Taj Mahal..
in railway Stations in India they really serve good breakfast..
mostly toast/eggs/tea..very cheap..
I first dropped in at the tourist office on the Mall..
booked a room in a cheap hotel..for 2 nights...
Agra is a city from more then 1 million people's crowded..
So..this Taj Mahal..deserves some attention..
it certainly strikes everybody if you see it for the first time..
it's such a beautiful building really..coming into via the archway..
you see this marble mausoleum..really wonderful architecture..
I'll tell more later on...and try to find some links on Agra..Taj Mahal...
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posting nr.12==few links on Taj Mahal and Agra..

Almost every India traveller will visit's a very popular destination..although i am mre interested in Rajasthan...
about a hotel choice==== Your text to link here...

A few links on Taj Mahal..
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posting nr.13==Agra

Agra...was hot...and full of tourists..everybody wants to see..
this Taj Mahal..yip...what struck me here..was the fact..
that India is such a place of contrast..on the Taj Mahal grounds..
i met Indians in colourful sarees..honeymooning couples..middle class..
when I went outside of the gate...a fellow on a small chart..
in rags..suffering from nose..fingers gone almost..
that's India as's very hard to travel there..very hard at times.. hardened me up..yes..i could take the extreme poverty..
I met a fellow hippie in my surprise..he was from Hoboken(Belgium)
he got some hasj...and we smoked it in Agra Railway Station at night..
we gave some of that chillum(bhang)to some poor Indian railway floor sleepers..
these people have NOTHING..if they get high on's heaven..yes..
I stayed 1 day longer in 3..I slept rough in Rlw Station..
just on the day..I got bugs..khujalee they call it in Hindi..
went to a pharmacy...and ordered some itched
it's a bug which gets into the clothes..had to wash all of them..
day 2 I went to see Red fort..and wandering in the streets of Agra..
will tell you more stop is Jaipur..lovely place

posting nr.14==Jaipur(Rajasthan) of Rajasthan of my favorite cities in India..
it's called pink city because of the colour of lots of has a lot
of gates as entrance to the old part of town...and one can see camel
driven carts..just like that in the streets..and the Rajputs dresses are
so damned wear turbans of all kind of colours..woman wear
colourfil skirts,beads,nose rings,foot ankles first encounter with Jaipur
was the Railway Station of course..I took a room in a Tourist Bungalow..very cheap dormstyle accomodation...
one meets always travellers in's a very touristy place...
I went to see this famous Hawa Mahal(Palace of the Winds)built in pink sandstone..
I climbed up the building via stairs on the rear side..
stunning view from the top..on Jaipur's bustling streets...
same day I visited City Palace..and the observatory..I did not understand
a shit of these constructions measuring azimuths,altitudes etc...
I'll put a you can read more about Jaipurs tourist attractions...
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I took out 3 days for my visit 1 is described here..
day 2...I rented a bicycle and cycled the burning sun
towards Amber'll tell you later on about that...
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P.S...and later on..this trip..on my return..
I met my future wife to be in New Delhi...and...
she was a Univ.professor for 15 JAIPUR

posting nr.15=Jaipur

So..I rented a bicycle..not so expensiv...well..what an adventure this day really was..
I still recall hopping on that bike..rented from somewhere around the Railway Station..i had to drive all the way to Amber Fort..
24kms..up and hot almost never rains in Rajasthan
I got a Hero cycle..good cycles made in India in Punjab..funny feeling to drive
a bicycle through Indian streets...see following link for traffic
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I drove through the old city of Jaipur through the Chandpol Gate..
Chandpol Bazar-and up to Johari Bazar..road to Delhi...
once outside the city...loveley...absoluteley..I enjoyed this..
of course these trucks get along..but anyway...
it was bloody hot though..but I made it..
on the way I met 2 elephants coming down the road with their mahuts(trainers)
I reached Amber safeley..Woooahh..what an impressive fort..
there's a steep road uphill..quite a tourists can do
this stuff on elephant back...since I was not rich..
I decided to walk...these elephants walk up..
and beside them usually a local villager in local dress..
playing a rawanahatta(1 string instrument)baksheesh,you know..
kind way of begging..I must say here these rich tourists spoil a lot..
now...and even in 1972..Indians get the feeling..
that every white a capitalist...Boooh..why???
So..Amber Palace..don't miss this place..
I'll try to find a link..because..well..
I don't remember all these names..
but it's a fabulous place..the bycicle ride back was O.K..
downhill you know..I felt great..and got a red nose+face..sunburnt.. 3..I did some bazar sightseeing+city museum Jaipur..
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posting nr.16==Jaipur

day 3 in Jaipur I wanted to walk trough the many bazars of Jaipur..
Johari,Tripolia,Chandpol,Bapu,Nehru Bazar...all of these connected
with little side streets...where real Indian streetlife could be observed..
friendly but curious people..some touts try always to get you into their
gem or souvenir shop..but I rarely did that...of course always a free cup
of tea..the bazars are crowded...but the colours,smells,people are sure
worthwhile..Jaipur is known for gems..but that was not for my purse
Surana is a very famous jeweller..who makes very nice pieces of gold..
i got quite tired of all that walking...and then the heat..
one has to really get used to it..on top of that the crowd..the beggars..
I went to Ram Niwas Gardens in front of central museum..
just lay down in the park..but could not take a nap
then afterwards museum visit...loveley art and local costumes,folklore,
woodwork,brassware,miniature paintings etc....after that took a riksja
to railway station..information about going towards Kanpur-Khajurhao..
i was going to see Khajurhao with its erotic art temples
tell you more later..Jaipur was really worthwhile...

posting nr.17==the Khajurhao erotic art temples..
Published by old tiger in the blog old tiger's Blog. Views: 3

So..let's move towards's just a little village.
but the temples there..became world wide famous..
erotic ass..when I was in India in early 70's
just a simple tongue kiss in movies..was taboo...
up till now..Indians are rather prude on sex matters..stayed a bit taboo..
so..I took this train towards Jhansi..bus to Panna..bus to Khajuraho.
don't remember where i slept there..loveley temples..
If you have seen one..they all look a bit the same
I remember the sun going down scene in this place..
lovely..I'll try to find a link..
Kama Sutra??a book about sexual positions
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a good link on Khajurhao=== Your text to link here...
after Khajuraho i went to Allahabad..
will tell you later..if you peeps are interested?

posting nr.18==Allahabad

Allahabad..was very hot..this place is known for amrood..'s very rich in vitamines..I was there in the season.. tastes inbetween like a pear/strawberrie
Allahabad is also know for the fact the Ganga+Yamuna rivers flow together has religious value as well..called the sangam=a great pilgrimage
point at the confluence of these 2 rivers.a mela=a pilgrimage where sometimes
millions of devotees gather..i'll try to get a link on khumb mela..
awww..I wish I could experience a khumb mela..lots of sanyasi'(holy men)
or sadhus like we say....are present..I've met a few in Varanasi..
they are stoned 24h/24h..very strange dudes sometimes!!
I recall Allahabad for being very hot...and for amrood
will try to get you peeps some you'll get not bored

so here a few links on sadhus,sanyasis,holy men etc...
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in this last link=click on more images..

posting nr.19==Varanasi(=ex Benares)

went from Allahabad to Varanasi by train..always an adventure..
Varanasi(ex Benares)is a city you should see...
it's very very a matter of fact I've
never seen more holy cows anywhere else then
in Varanasi..this holy city for Hindu's is dusty,hot,
crowded,very spiritual...and specially very good to
have a glimpse on Hinduism,holy men,cremation on
the ghats(steps on the Ganges river)first you arrive
in Varanasi..most probably by train in Mogul Serai=
11km.south..try to arrive in Varanasi Junction Station..
Tourist office=The Mall 15b=Cantonment area..
accomodation..try Tourist Dak bungalow=The Mall..
no idea about prices...just make a walk to the river
side..on the will see strange things...
ritual baths,chanting of Holy texts,yogi,holy men..
cremations are held at Manikharnika ghat or Harichandra ghat..
photography is forbidden..I've witnessed once a ceremony..
and i felt quite fact the oldest son has to light the pile of wood...
it takes a lot of nerve to will hear no mourning..
it's more reading of Holy texts by a pandit..around these ghats a strange group
of holy men live...with dreadlock hair..and poorly dressed..
ask for aghori's..very funny people...sort of sadhu's..
the bathing rituals are going on mostly at daybreak
..ask for Dashaswahmed ghat..a ritual bath consist of
chanting a mantra..going head under 3 times..and drink
some Ganga water..on the ghats you will see a whole lifestyle... playing..barbers..massage.. cover over body is for women..
white one for males..only rich or middle class can afford
a ritual cremation..the very poor are cremated in another
way=electrical..near Harichandra ghat..
Benares is famous for silk,as well as Sanskrit study's..
a great University to study hindi or Hinduism..
but all together..didn't like Benares too much..
it's too hectic..too many swindlers,beggars,people who
want you in their shops,riksja pullers who overcharge..
I would recommend Sarnath=10kms.from Varanasi..
here Budhha held his first preaching..there is a great temple
ask for Maha Bodhi Society Temple..ask for Deer Park where
Buddha held his first speech..what a difference this place is..
with hot bustling Varanasi..take a bus from Varanasi..
I'll try to find some links..

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posting nr.20==Patna(Bihar)
So..from stop was Patna=capital of Bihar state...
beware in Bihar..lots of beggars,theft,corruption..
Patna city was hot..dusty and dirty..
I only came there to get to Gaya..Bodh Gaya..Nalanda..Rajgir..
all places connected to Budhhism..
Patna has got's a grain storage thing...
30m.high..I climbed it for the view over the Ganges river and Patna..
it's a very funny architectural structure..looks like a Buddhist stupa..
Patna was a crossing point for hippies in the 70's...
because the border point North of get into Nepal..
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posting nr.21==Bodh Gaya(Bihar)

Patna-Gaya was a a bus in something..
they cramp people in like sardines into these local buses..
Bodh Gaya is very near to Gaya..another bus ride
in Bodh Gaya Buddha got enlightment..under the famous bodi tree..
nice place..lots of pilgrims from all over the world..
a few stupas to be seen as well as the Mahabodhi temple..
during this first visit of me in India I developed a liking for temples
also a Thai style temple..a Japanese Buddhist temple...well..
enough to fill up 2 days of visit..I visited Rajgir as well..
did not visit Nalanda..If i remember well??Rajgir is a small place where
important pilgrimage center for Buddhists and Jain religion are held..
I don't recall much of this place..exept a steep walk upon a hill..
to that Japanese Buddhist stupa...i'll try to find links..
next stop from here..will be Calcutta...end destination of my first India trip..
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posting nr.22==Calcutta(West Bengal)

Next stop was Calcutta..went there by train...
I recall reaching Howrah Railway Station..
I never saw such a crowd in a station..
Calcutta was dirty,hot,overcrowded..full of misery and poverty..
but..I liked it...and I could never predict then..that I came back..
6 times to this future sister in law was based in this place
as an air hostess for Indian airlines..she died in a plane crash..
and I miss her writing these lines..loveley woman she was..
So..Howrah bridge is a cantilever type of's so busy..
boem..boem..traffic..pedestrians..unbelieveable..I walked over it..
on the other end..the Calcutta I remember started..although Howrah a nightmare of poverty..beggars..dirt..dust and heat..
I decided to walk a bit into Calcutta..Strand Road..
a policeman in white dress..standing on a traffic island..
behind him a tent like thing..with people living on it..
couldn't believe my eyes...I walked all the way to BBD Bagh..
the Maidan=big parc-like field..I even saw rats there...well..well..
the big market is a hustle and bustle of shops..
a temptation for the eyes..full of colours..smells..people..shouting..
I will never forget Calcutta for the first LOVE this place..
my future wife hated it..I like mingling and talking with people..
now a typical Bengali..let's say middle class or quite intellectual..
they produce the best laywers,doctors of India..
and they are damned proud of it..I had some interesting talks..
about any subject..going from long hair to Western/Indian society contrasts
normally in beginning 70's the average Indian did not like hippies at all..
but..for them..all these freaks coming from the West..looking for this or that..
were an attraction..and Indians..believe me..are very friendly and
especially curious to learn about other societys then their own..
in these days the Naxalites were active in Calcutta..I met Netai..
he was a's a radical political group..I'll try to find a link??
awww..I can rant on about this city..I better stop..
in Bengali language they say...achtjee..
sounds like a sneezing..but it means *I'm going*
because later my second trip to India.
I will tell more about Calcutta
I'll give some links and you tubes.
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posting nr.23==New Delhi-Pakistan..

So..after New Delhi..train to Amritsar again..the Punjab..
is the home province of the Sikhs..they are very good farmers,
as well as good mechanics or army folks..their dairy products
like dohee(curd)are worthwhile tasting..i stayed 1 night again..
in gurdwara Ram Niwas..and moved on by bus to Wagah border..
same ritual as ever..passport control..stamps..Lahore was hot..
stayed in Lahore in railway retiring room..made a walk in the vicinity
of railway usual very busy area..Anarkali bazar should be
visited as some information on trains toward Peshawar..
straight train via Islamabad..i was going to go into Afghanistan via
the famous khyber pass..but still had to make an entry visa..
for Afghanistan in the Afghani consulate Peshawar..honestly said..
I did not enjoy Pakistan as I enjoyed travelling in India..
Pakistanis are extremeley curious..10 times they will ask you.
sir,are you American??are you British??what's your job,age??
do you like Pakistan??can you sing a song??shit..I got so fed up
in the train I sung a Hindi movie song from Kishore Kumar(India)
they were clapping their hands like little kids...and to tell you..
i'm a very lousy singer..i only knew 2 lines..but that was enough
will tell you all about Peshawar and Afghanistan later on..

posting nr.24==Pakistan-Afghanistan

so..up to Kabul..via Peshawar..
Peshawar..close to the border of Afghanistan..
the local Pasthun gun shops..
everybody carries a gun..a knife??did not feel at ease??
worser then Baluchi's..don't mess up with Pasthuns
visa Afganistan took 1 full day....the old city+bazar..
looked like any bazar in Pakistan..crowded..noisy..
one could see already some full burqua women here..
from top to toes hidden..small grilled mask for the eyes..
i can't remember where i stayed here..small hotel,I guess..
we set off by bus to Khyber pass next was december..
bloody cold as well..reached Jamrud fort..and Torkham..
border Afghanistan..these days..Afghanistan was still O.K..
no mujahedin..border passport control took a while..
I met an Afghani guy..travelling with a very funny Japanese chick..
they gave me a ride to Jalalabad..and Kabul..funny folks..
stoned on hasj..Kabul..was cold..but still..really different..
looked like the middle ages..lots of women in veil..Kabuli's in dhoti's
with strange beards,very nice bazar..stayed in cheap hotel..
Afghanistan..has been the most cheap country I ever visited..
in these days..these Afghani sheep coats were bought by hippies..
for a soft price...and then resold either in Istanbul or Europe..
I did not buy one...needed my money for the trip back home..
from Kabul one must travel to reach the Irani border..
I was lucky..I met a South African fellow with his Swedish girl friend..
they offered me a lift up to Tehran for free..I think they liked company..
Gunilla was a nice chick..she had set off with her Swedish boy friend towards Istanbul..
one day...they were picked up by a Turkish trucker..
offered them raki...result..Gunilla was raped..really horrible story
the fellow left back for home..Gunilla met a South African...and travelled on with him..
in these days..the mentality was like that..
so..we set off in this van towards Kandahar..on a cold december morning..
I'll tell the rest later on..

posting nr.25==Kabul-Herat(Afghanistan)

Kabul-Ghazni-Kandahar..all I remember from this are rough roads..
lots of wild unspoilt scenery(probably different now due to warfare)
these heavy colourful trucks..and we stopped in a roadside place to eat..
nan(flat bread)rice..mutton..very cheap and tasty..the Afghani's were friendly folks..
Kandahar was a busy place..some bazar activity..
I believe we stayed in a local hotel there...big carpetlike room..
where travellers could roll out their sleeping bags and just stay overnight..
they passed hasj around in chillum like we drink tea..
everybody smokes hasj in Afghanistan..
the whole stretch from Kabul we did not see 1 woman..
Gunilla was a beautiful chick..and these Afghani's stared a lot..
but with 2 body problem so..the next day..we first did some
little bazar shopping(food)to get on the way to Herat..I did like Herat
much better then Kandahar..we moved on to the Irani border to get to Mashad..
border crossing into hassles..thanks to the smile
and charms of Gunilla took 10 cross into Iran..
we heard in Mashad that this border crossing..
was famous for busting folks with drugs...
we did not carry anything again..big relief..
roads are much better there..and friendly people...will tell more later on..
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posting nr.26==Iran-Turkey-Greece..

I don't remember where we stayed in Mashad..
it's a pilgrimage place..we moved on to Tehran..
Gunilla+her friend decided to stay on a while..
promessed Gunilla to visit her on my next trip..nice chick..
I moved on towards Tabriz money situation was not very great..
crossed into Turkey again via Bazargan..took a straight bus to Agri.. was middle december...I recall half a meter of snow in Agri
in the hotel where I stayed..they heated with stoves burning on wood..
nice and day..bus to Erzurum..change bus and direct bus
to Istanbul..I was in a hurry..stayed in Istanbul for 2 hotel..
bus to Ippsala..border between Turkey-Greece..Greece..was nice..
will tell more later..something tragic happened near Kavalla.. for Mashad(Iran)
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posting nr.27==a terrible happening near Kavalla(Greece)

So..border crossing over to Greece from Turkey..took a while..
specially on the Turkish side(exit)I met an American couple..
they were hitchhiking to Saloniki..we got picked up..all 3 of us..
by some weird looking couple in a VW bus..driver looked bit stoned??
so..we went on..stopped in Xanti in a roadside café..this dude(driver)
took ouzo like we drank coffee so after this we moved on..and it became dark..
stopped bit before Kavalla...again roadside café..
you know..Greece..people can be very liveley..there was bouzouki music..
plenty of ouzo flowing..the American couple had an argument with this
crazy dude..he was plain drunk.. I moved out of that café..and walked
about 1km.further down the road..where I slept the night on the roadside
in a my surprise..I was picked up by Greek police..
and was driven by them to the police station in Kavalla town..mystery??
another big the police station..the American couple+the wife
of that crazy dude also present...we got some food(feta cheese with bread)offered by the police..
I was taken into a separate room..could not talk to either the American couple or the wife of this dude..
So..police asked me questions about the ride with this dude..
they told me following story...which is really awful
after I had left that café...the American couple had an argument with that dude..he was acting foolishly..
went outside on the road..
was pitch street light..this crazy dude..must have been jumping
around on the street...a truck coming from Kavalla..did not see him in time
fellow got hit...fell under the wheels...and was killed on the spot
can you imagine the wife??how she must have felt??I can't??
so..after this police interrogation..we were all set free....and hitched ride
to Thessaloniki...where I stayed in the Youth hostel..I needed a bath...
and I was really upset about this accident...will tell more later on..

posting nr.28==Greece-Yougoslavia-Austria..

Thessaloniki is a real nice Greek town..lots of parallel streets..
Youth hostel was a small side street somewhere..
I made a walk around the main boulevard..nice fruit and vegetable shop..
I went to the railway find out about trains towards Yugoslavia..
but they turned out to be to hitch hiking was the only option left.. morning I set off direction Polykastron-Evsoni..
stood at least 2 hours on the outskirts of town..
some Germans gave me a ride to Gevgelia(border Yougoslavia)
and further north towards Skopje(Macedonia)border check Greece-Yougoslavia went smoothly..
in Skopje the Germans dropped me..i was hitching towards Pristina..which is nowadays capital of Kosovo region..these days Yougoslavia was still a very nice country under was greater Bosnia,Servia was a very cheap country in these from Skopje I was real lucky..
got a ride straight to Vienna(Austria)with 2 Australians chicks goingto Vienna-Budapest..
they let me sleep in their van as well..via Beograd--towards Zagreb-Ljubjlana-Varazdin-Maribor..
crossed into Austria at the border crossing Spielfeld..then Graz(capital of Steiermark)
nice scenery in Austria..up to Vienna..where I left the Australians..real nice chicks..
will tell more later a very funny ride between Vienna-Salzburg for Thessaloniki(Greece)== Your text to link here...

posting nr.29==Austria-

Vienna(Wien)is a big get to the best to hitch a ride..
Schonbrunn castle leads to highway for Salzburg..I believe I took some
means of public transport to get me close to the highway entrance..
so..i started hitching...after about 30 car stopped..
it was a Porsche..I asked the fellow..Fahrts du richtung Salzburg??
nods his head..well..the whole ride..this fellow was speeding like a fool..
and not saying 1 I got quickly in Salzburg..
lovely place..I decided to stay overnight in the Youth hostel..
I guess I figured I would be back home in Belgium in 2 days..
it was bloody cold..december..snow in's a postcard picture
I was already thinking about my next trip..direction Norway-Sweden-Finland..
but..first i needed some was hoping to do some little
jobs for small cash..I always loved to paint people's homes..
like houses..walls to Belgium..
link for Austria Your text to link here...

posting nr.30==Germany and back home..

Next a ride straight to Munich(Germany)
started bit late in Salzburg...slept in a big building site.
in construction..I took the third windows..but dry
and out of the cold night..I was sure I was not going to make Munich
to my home next more extra sleeping in the rough..
was nearly cold winter in Germany..
I thought of starting my Scandinavia trip middle may..
and the happy thought..of seeing my DAD a few days..
made me glad..he was a good man..despite his alcoholism..
and..I was longing for Belgian chips/steak+beer...mmmmmm..
next day..made my own breakfast...head still dizzy..
started off by noon only..if I remember well..
good and quick ride straight to Koln..
stood for a while in Koln..but got a lift to Liège(Belgium)
took a train home..50 km...glad to see my home place again..
but everything looked always so strange..after being away from home
for a few Dad was out when I came in..grandfather home..
brother out..aunt out..took a good shower...later on..
my Dad came home..was very glad to see was I..
so my friends...this was all about my first overland trip towards India...
i will start my 1975 trip soon in another blog...
I do hope you enjoyed reading about my adventures on the road..
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