Topic 2- Chickens

WHAT CHICKENS NEED
1. Grains (whole, living grains are better than cracked, and a mixture is better than pure corn)
2. Greens (grass, weeds fresh veggie parings from kitchen!)
3. Protein (in summer, they get enough bugs, but in colder weather they need protein supplementation,)

And WATER, WATER, WATER.
Chickens won't always search far for food or water. Sometimes they won't even go around a see-through fence to get it. And they need lots of water, especially when laying.

The most convenient way of feeding chickens is with a balanced pelleted ration, whether the birds are confined indoors or allowed to range outdoors. Most diets contain corn for energy, soybean meal for protein, and vitamin and mineral supplements. Commercial rations often contain antibiotics and arsenicals to promote health and improve growth, coccidiostats for combating coccidiosis, and sometimes mold inhibitors. However, it is possible to obtain unmedicated feed-check feed labels to see if they contain feed additives.


In the industry, the feed is pelleted so the bird can eat more at one time. Chickens are nibblers and make frequent trips to the feed trough for small meals, which requires energy. Pelleting reduces the amount of energy required for a bird to feed. However, many producers of pasture-based, "natural" poultry believe that the meat is better when the bird receives more exercise.

If the bird is eating a fibrous diet, grit, (Not oyster shells) is supplied to aid in grinding up coarse feed in the gizzard. Industry birds usually don't use grit because the diet is low in fiber. Outdoor birds also pick up small stones. Here i take our shells from eggs crunch them up and bake them a bit to dry them and scatter in pen.

Different rations are often used, depending on the production stage of the bird. Starter rations are high in protein-an expensive feed ingredient. However, grower and finisher rations can be lower in protein since older birds require less. A starter diet is about 24% protein, grower diet 20% protein, and finisher diet 18% protein (1). Layer diets generally have about 16% protein. Special diets are available for broilers, pullets, layers, and breeders. Whole grains can also be provided as scratch grains. Feed comes in either mash form or pelleted. Mash is simply smashed up pellets. I generally start chicks on mash and after 3 months or som move them on to pelleted feed. May just be my hens but they seem to make a giant mess of the mash and waste oodles more.

There are a few varieties of organic feed out on the market, although they are very expensive to buy and hard to come by.

Mixing your own ration is done fairly easily if you have a feed mill in town or close by. You simply tell them what grains etc you want in and they mix it for you.This generally has to be done in bulk sizes 500 pounds or more. storage becomes an issue if you only have a few birds. Depending on how extreme one would like to go with mixing and growing there own food there are multiple ways of going about finding a happy medium for you and your flock. One can sprout there own grains n beans, grow maggots and worms etc and feed back to the chickens. Here, I feed, pellets and scratch grains and supplement them with greens from the yard, worms, bugs n stuff i find and collect for them ,and alot of compost from our kitchens and different gardens. Currently about 50 % of our flocks feed is coming from sources other than bags of purchased feed. In the near future i am hoping to raise that amount closer to 75%.

 

I am leaning heavily toward Rhode Island Reds. I was first wanting white egg layers but because everything I read says that brown eggers are more laid back I think that may be the way to go.


Do you have your chicks innoculated at the hatchery? I was checking them out at McMurrays and they offer to vaccinate 25 chicks for 3.50. I'm not sure if I should go ahead and let them or not.

I am going to order from the co-op so it may not even be an option. I am guessing if one person says yes the rest of the chicks in the shipment are treated.

Glad your computer's working again!

 

I do usually have them inoculated at the hatchery, to me its cheap and even though we are as antibiotics free as can be i figure there is a good reason they inoculate for what they do

i like my reds. they are pretty laid back gals.. my polish ones , beautiful as they are are blockheads,,,,my favorites are my ameracaunas, even though i have no real reason why other than the coloring, which isnt ornamental or anything , and blue eggs are kind of fun,,,,
fun fact ... the green eggs and ham from dr sceuss fame was from aracauna hens laying green eggs, not cuz it was rotten like most of us seem to think...

 

If you pick up a book on raising chickens or any other animal for that matter, you will probably notice the enormously large section on illness , parasites and diseases . By reading the books one would come to the conclusion that chickens and all animals should not be around humans for fear of becoming ill yourself. Simple fact of the matter is, I have never had an encounter with diseased chickens in large numbers and i have been around them since i was a very small child. By far predatory animals are the chickens worst illness or cause of death in flocks. Poor sanitation is secondary and those conditions are what causes most illnesses in a flock . Cleanliness is the key preventive measure, and i do not mean sweeping and dusting out your chicken coop daily or even monthly. Keeping the bedding dry, keeping extreme cold out and providing clean, fresh and plentiful amounts of water and clean feeding places is usually sufficient with a two to three time a year complete cleaning.

Following are some home , old time remedies for your birds that are both cheap and often times there is no need to run out and buy special treatments for them.

Onions and garlic fed regularly are a natural preventative of any worms that might be thinking of a home in there guts. (If your hens are laying, they will pick up the flavors of the garlic and onions...) Sour milk or buttermilk mixed in their feed or drinking water will deter diarrhea, epsom salts fed at 1/2 tsp per bird will also ward of diarrhea. I put a tsp of bleach per gallon of drinking water, it keeps waterer's clean and i have been told by several folks here that it also wards off worms.

Hen house's ,brooders and incubators should be thoroughly aired and washed between flocks. I do this at least every 6 months whether i have a new flock or not. I completely clean all poop and bedding, and nest boxes out and then use a bleach water mixture and allow to dry before re bedding the coop and nests..

During the winter, keep chicken house litter dry and exposed to air by scattering scratch feed around on it every day. This serves the added purpose of providing the hens with exercise so that they stay warm and healthy. Some say , on especially cold mornings try adding one tablespoon of kerosene to their drinking water as a pick-me-up. (I have never done this myself but thought i would include it just in case anyone is so inclined)

Among the actual diseases that infect domestic fowl, diarrhea is the most common. This condition-revealed by white or greenish, loose droppings-can be caused by cold, dampness, dirty surroundings and unclean food. Isolate the patient in warm, dry quarters and give her potassium permanganate solution to drink. To make this remedy, dissolve one tablespoon of the chemical in one quart of warm water. Then, for each bird, take one tablespoon of this concentrated solution and further dissolve it in one cup of warm water . . . in severe cases use a stronger solution, potent enough to turn a dipped finger slightly brown. (Don't keep potassium permanganate mixture in a metal container.)

Roup is caused by cold, damp or drafty quarters or by overcrowded housing, and is spread through the drinking water or feed. The symptoms are like those of the common cold: sneezing and a watery discharge which later turns foamy white and then yellowish-from the eyes or nostrils. Sometimes diarrhea, weakness and swelling of the head will also occur. You'll find on examination that the bird's throat is inflamed, with patches of gray and yellow forming a membrane that almost closes the passage. To treat this illness isolate the hen in a warm coop or box lined with hay or straw. The container should be placed in a sunny spot and covered at night. Feed the patient stale bread moistened with milk (preferably milk in which onions have been boiled) . . . or try cooked rice mixed with chopped parsley and onion tops with a tablespoon of powdered charcoal added twice a day. For drink use a weak potassium permanganate solu tion.

Gapes is a disease caused by a parasitic roundworm which is about 5/16 this of an inch long and looks like a fine thread. These pests lodge in the hen's throat and multiply there, so that the bird frequently opens its mouth wide as if yawning. To treat this condition make a salt brine, or steep tobacco in water for ten minutes. Pour one teaspoonful of either mixture down the chicken's throat. Then, keeping its head up, close the bird's nose holes and count slowly to five Next hold the patient by the feet, head down, and it will usually cough, sputter and evict the worms.

Scaly legs-which makes even young hens look like old crones with bumpy underpinnings-is actually caused by a parasite and is contagious. Combat the disease by bathing and softening the bird's limbs for a few minutes in a medium strong solution of that old cure-all, potassium permanganate. Wash the skin thoroughly, dry it and rub on some vaseline Repeat the treatment every three days.

Liver trouble is a non-contagious ailment that affects mostly older, heavier birds in the late winter and early spring. Sometimes the fowls die without warning, or they become sluggish and their faces and combs turn either yellowish or purple. The chickens may also have diarrhea and lose their appetites. The disease is caused by too little exercise and too much heavy, rich feed. It can be prevented by giving the flock a good supply of greens the year round. If this disorder does occur, the remedy is a dose of Epsom salts as for diarrhea.

Molting Once per year, every year, chickens will shed and re-grow some of their feathers. This process is called "molting". This usually happens in summer. During this time they may look a little ratty, and they definitely won't lay eggs. Not to worry. This isn't a sign of illness! The feathers will grow back and your bird will look better than ever. (If, however, it takes a long time for the feathers to grow back, this could be a sign of parasites or other illness.) You should be able to tell the difference because a sick bird behaves differently from the rest of the flock in other ways .

Here, I do not use any commercially available antibiotics or medications for the birds. If one does become ill, I simply separate it and use home remedies for her. If this fails, I put the bird down or watch n see if she gets better while keeping it separated from others . Personally I cant see taking a chicken to a vet and the subsequent bills. Most people are just not in the position to be rushing old Gladys the hen for an emergency vet visit at 3 am on a sunday... putting a value on an animal is not easy but rational thought processes need to be used when it comes to homestead life and death is a part of it.

potassium permanganate can be found at most home depots, lowes , feed and seed stores or pond/ aquaculture supply stores , it is widely used for both aquaculture as well as in water systems and is an effective way to control many bacterial, parasitic and fungal agents before systemic infections become established, often eliminating the need for antibiotic therapy.

***always wash hands thoroughly after handling, birds, eggs, meat or working in the coop. A pair of shoes or boots specifically used in barnyard chores is always a good idea as is never wearing them to any other locations. Keeping your boots or shoes clean is always a good practice as well a good rinsing on the outside with a little soap and bleach water is all that you need.

 

egg production
Most chicken breeds start laying small eggs around 6-7 months of age(some breeds around five months ). They will continue to lay well for about 2 years, then they start to taper off,...might lay 3 eggs a week then 2. Most farm people do not keep laying hens beyond -3 years..they go into the pot, unless of course you are vegetarian and they just become garden/yard helpers Bear in mind that the first eggs that are laid are generally little tiny buggers (kids love them because they are kid sized) don't be alarmed when you find what appears to be a robin sized egg in a nest, they will get bigger. Eggs do not need refrigeration unless they will be unused for over two weeks. If a hen can lay a clutch of eggs over a two week period before beginning her actual sitting on them to incubate them, why would they need a fridge? Eggs from a store are generally sitting around a warehouse for a length of time before ever finding your local grocer.

basic over view of how reproduction works
Chickens, as well as other birds, have a common opening for reproduction and for the evacuation of stools and urine. This opening is called the "vent". They do not have a bladder ,Ttheir urine is not a fluid,it is a white paste, called urates, that you can observe surrounding the droppings. The intestine, ureters and oviduct come together into a common chamber called the cloaca. This is a rather dirty place, where as the egg is always clean and almost sterile when laid.
The hen turns part of the cloaca and the last segment of the oviduct inside out, "like a glove." The described red membrane is then everted inside of these organs. The egg emerges far outside, at the end of the bulge. So it cannot contact the walls of the cloaca and get contaminated by stools or urine. The intestine and inner part of the cloaca are kept shut by the emerging egg, and their contents cannot leave when the hen strains to deliver the egg. Eggs are always clean as they are laid,however, sometimes a hen with dirty feet, will get the egg dirty anyway.
here is a basic diagram of how it all works



brooders
Brooding has been bred out of most chickens today. In the four years we have had 30 or more hens at all times here, we have had one hen hatch 2 chicks . On occassion a hen will go broody on you even without a rooster in the flock, if this happens either ignore it and she should return to normal after about three weeks (provide food n water nearby) or remove eggs dailyand it should fix the problem. If it doesnt work, try distracting her and walking her around a few minutes a day to get her mind off of sitting, usually within a couple days she is back to laying. If this still is an issue,,, simply put her in solitary confinement in a wire bottom cage with no nest, supply her with food and water and within a few days will be back to being a layer.

Happy turkeybird day yall!

 

incubators
An incubator is an enclosure having controlled temperature, humidity, and ventilation in which to hatch eggs of various types of poultry. Air exchange is attained by the rise and escape of warm, stale air and the entry of cooler fresh air near the base of the incubator..Some units also have egg holders and automatic turners. Prices will very immensely depending on what model or series you want or need .You can build your own... (http://msucares.com/poultry/reproductions/poultry_make_incubator.html)

There are basically two types of incubators available, forced-air and still-air incubators. Forced-air incubators have fans that provide internal air circulation, often have automatic turners,are used more commercially than for just a hobbyist/ homesteader and thereby more costly and less hands on with the eggs/ chicks.
The still-air incubators are usually small ,without fans for air circulation and require you to turn the eggs several times daily.


a basic still air incubator (no frills, no fans, no egg holders n no turners)$39.95 is what i paid for ours. They pay for themselves in one hatch of 20 chicks... and are not limited to chickens

collecting and storing eggs for incubation

***Your eggs need to settle for at least 24 hours if they came through the mail. This allows the air-cell inside the egg to return to it's normal size.

Hatching eggs should be incubated within 1 week. Hatchability declines rapidly when incubation is postponed for more than 10 days.

Until they are incubated, hatching eggs should be stored in cartons or cases—large end up—at 40 to 70° F. (50-60° F. is best) with a relative humidity of about 75 percent. . If the eggs are to be stored for more than 2 to 3 days before they are incubated, their positions should be changed each day to reduce the tendency for the yolks to stick to the shells, for the final day allow them to rest with pointy end down.

***Keep in mind that about 50% success rate in hatching is normal...**

Choosing your eggs
They should be of a regular shape and average size, not larger or smaller than a typical egg produced by your chickens. Their shells should display no holes or cracks because such damage could encourage disease organisms to penetrate the egg. With this same concern in mind, you should not wash or wipe the egg, as you could remove the egg's natural protective coating that guards against such organisms.

Mark eggs, using a pencil only , with an X on one side and an O on the other. Make sure to turn the eggs at least 3 times a day (turn an odd number of times a day). You cannot skip weekends - you might get deformed chickens or none at all.

Incubation tips

Always start with a clean disinfected incubator .

Eggs should hatch in 21 days, give or take couple, after the incubation has begun .Some will not hatch, discard any unhatched eggs after 24 days.

Before putting your eggs into an incubator, plug it in and make sure the temp is steady at 100.5 degrees. I use a thermometer and a hygrometer (which measures humidity). Hygrometers can be purchased quite cheaply. Try your local cigar shop first, Radio Shack and some walmarts carry them and if you live in an area where poultry is popular, then you should have poultry supply places as well as local feed and seed stores that carry them. You want 50% humidity for day 1-18, then 70-80% for the last few days.


Candling
Eggs can be candled anytime after about Day 5 of incubation through Day 17 in order to see if the chicks are developing properly etc. Candling is using a beam of light to see inside the eggshell. You can use a simple wooden box with a light bulb inside it and a small hole at one end big enough to sit the egg on right up to the professional lens focusing, high powered units. The basic wooden box is suitable for most people.

The method of candling is very simple you hold the large end of the egg towards the hole in the box or lens, and then look at the side view of the egg. Rotate the egg slowly till you can see the insides clearly. I generally candle eggs 4 times for each incubation period.

1. Before placing in the incubator, by doing this you can see the freshness of the egg by the size of the air sac. The longer an egg sits or is stored the less chance of a successful hatch.Thin shelled eggs do not generally grow into a chick, so i discard them immediately.

2. 7 days, this will tell you if the egg is fertile or not. A clear egg means the egg is not fertile or early death of chick.. Fingers of blood vessels are a sign that all is OK. A C shaped vessel the chick is dead. This could be from rough handling or lack of Vitamin. K

3. 14 days, the egg should be a solid dark shape with a well defined air sac. By looking at the sized of the airsack you can and some practice you can tell the humidity levels in the incubator. A very large air sac you will have a small weak chick, the humidity is to low. If a small air sac is seen the chick will be all sticky or could drown during hatching .you can adjust the levels as required according to directions on your incubator .

4. 18 days. The chick is fully developed and the air sac is should be about 1 quarter the total volume of the egg. This will give the chick enough air during hatching and that the humidity levels are good. Do not candle after 18 days. The chicks need to setle and prepare for there grand entry into the world for the next three days.

Here is a link to a good reference site with good photos on candling an egg .
http://www.homestead.com/shilala/candling.html



trouble shooting tips

Symptoms eggs candling clear
No blood rings or embryo growth.
Possible cause
Eggs from a flock having no roosters.
Poor flock management.
Eggs stored below 40° F or which were too old before setting
Symptoms
Eggs candling clear
But showing blood or very small embryos on breaking.
Possible cause
Incubator temperature too high.
Eggs stored below 40 or above 80° F. before setting.
Symptoms
Dead Embryos
Before hatching time.
Possible cause
Eggs haven't been turned at least 3 times a day.
Lack of ventilation.
Incubator temperature set too high or too low.
Breeder flock having poor hatchability or fed inadequate ration.
Symptoms
Eggs pipped but not hatched (Chick pecks hole through shell)
Chicks dead in shells.
Sticky chicks
Shells sticking to chicks.
Possible cause
Low average humidity.
Low average temperature.
Low humidity at hatching time.
Excessive high temperature for short period.
Symptoms
Hatching too early
With bloody navels.
Possible cause
Temperature too high.
Symptoms
Delayed hatch
Eggs not pipping until 21st day or later.
Possible cause
Temperature too low.
Symptoms
Draggy hatch- Some chicks hatch early, but hatch is slow in finishing.
Possible cause
Temperature too high.
Symptoms
Crippled chicks
Possible cause
Abnormalities in development.
Poor nutrition of hens.
Incubator temperature too high.


after the hatch

Do not be in a hurry to take chicks out of the incubator. Gallinaceous birds, such as chickens,quail,turkey, and pheasants survive up to 3 days without feed or water. The yolk of the egg is drawn through the navel into the stomach of the baby bird before it hatches. That provided enough nourishment for the transitional period from the time the bird hatches, fluffs out, gains strength and becomes active enough to go out and seek food. Chicks continue to grow and develop in the incubator, before they receive food. Of course, they do not gain weight, but they do gain in stature, activity and use of their faculties.

They will instinctively be interested in drops of water, each other's toes, and other objects of possible experimentation. Do not assume from these evidences of interest that the chicks are hungry. It is simply nature's way of experimentation, exploration, and learning of the young. In general chicks are taken from the incubator after 24 hours. No harm is done if they are not taken out for 48 hours after they hatch.

Feeding Baby Chicks

Feed and water must be available at all times from the time they are out of the incubator. Do not dole out a measured daily ration. Do not let feed or water run out! As i remove chicks from the incubator to the brooder,I dip the beak into sugared water and feed.
Water receptacles are a problem with baby birds during their first week, in that if they can, the birds will drown themselves. The urge to get into water is thought to be related to the fact that the birds are fresh out of the fluids of their natural environment. The younger the bird is, the stronger the urge to throw herself completely into any water that is available. After a few days, this instinctive compulsion to flounder in water disappears.

A common device to prevent drowning is to use a shallow water cup with marbles set in the water over the entire drinking area. The chicks will drink in the spaces between the marbles.

 

We have reached the butchering stages of the chickens life cycle. So as to not offend , I have a separate thread for just butchering of animals. Only go to that specific thread if you want to learn and see how butchering is done.

I believe we have pretty much covered the basics of raising chickens from start to finish, I am sure some things have been missed or left completely out, but if you have something to add or feel needs to be discussed or gone more in depth i will be glad to do so .. just post it... A bit later on in the course the class we will be looking taking a closer look at other various type of poultry and fowl to raise on a homestead, as well as good companion animals for poultry.

Here is the link to the butchering thread http://www.hipforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3897787#post3897787 ....

 

I have a couple quick questions, admittedly i read through this first lesson pretty quick.

1. I live in Pennsylvania, it gets quite cold here. Do you have some suggestions for outdoor, laying hens?

2. Also, what is an acceptable temperature range in the shed/henhouse? I have a large shed, 24' x 16' that i could easily use or just build something off the back side of it, like a lean too, and pen it in. I'm just worried that they will be too cold in the winter, and there really isn't an acceptable place indoors for them.

3. My plan is to give them a small area to outside of the shed but as far as feed, i guess go to an Agway (farm store) and tell them i have egg layin hens, and i need some good food? How much should i get per hen? Is there a "better" type of feed over others available commercially?

 

Just a quick update on my chicken progress. I have found a shed to convert to my coop. It's nicely made and can be moved if need be. We just need to add nesting boxes, perches, chicken door (it has a full size door but that will be my entrance from the back), windows for ventilation and light, and fencing. We are going to put the chickens near the dog lot so hopefully they will discourage the larger predators. We just have to be extra careful on that part of the fence so the two can't mix. My dogs don't have a good history with chickens. The neighbor had some once and two died because they crossed into our yard. (The rest of the chickens died in a coop fire but that's a different story.) Everything seems to be taking shape.

 

No worries these lessons will all stay on here forevermore i am imagining and i am seriously considering when it is all said and done making a huge handbook sort of thing with all the lessons available in one easy place seperate from this site.

If they are going to be outdoors all the time in the elements, which they do pretty well most of the time except under extreme cold, (there combs n such will sometime freeze n fall off, it wont kill them , just makes ugly chickens) . You can simply buy a nest box or make some nest boxes that can be out doors for them. ideally this would be out of the elements and out of wind areas ..For extreme cold, below zero, a heat lamp would help although ours here often do not have one going evenwhen it gets super cold and i have never had one freeze ,,, i can only ever remember one hen even in ny getting froze and one of her feet fell off she survived...

That is a pretty large shed for chickens, you could put a good bunch in something that size. For inside enclosure, chickens of average size require 1.5 sq foot of space.(personally i would divide my shed and build a goat pen as well to share with the chickens )It isnt so much the cold that is dangerous to any animal it is the wind and dampness levels in any enclosure where they are, so long as you can enclose an area and keep it relatively draft free they should be ok. For anything other than chicks a lamp is only needed for extreme conditions . Peeps need to gradually go from 95- 70 degrees over the course of several weeks and dropping the temp by 5 degree increments weekly

If you start with laying hens , there are two basic feeds both the same just one is mashed and one is pelleted. For laying hens i prefer the pelleted, mash just seemed to turn into goo and a whole lot more waste. Expect to pay about 9-10 dollars a bag. I also buy scratch for ours here and feed 1part scratch to 3 parts or so of pellets.... I just toss the scratch around there stomping grounds in order to keep some of there few instincts intact and keeps the ground a bit aerated n such. a hen will eat about 4 oz of total food per day. This includes , greens , scratch , grains and any kitchen scraps. We go through 100 pounds of feed and 30 or so of scratch a month and have about 40 birds total.
If you start with chicks, start them out on starter mash for the first two - 3 months before changing them over to laying pellets or mash.

If i didnt quite cover all your questions or you have new ones be sure and ask ,,,,

 

Just be certain the fence near where dog lives or is chained is good fencing, ... most dogs that ppl say are "good with animals" still luv a chicken dinner..
Sounds like you have this all figured out already, that is awesome. You should post some pictures in the pictures thread that i will start..

 

Awesome, so just to make sure it sticks in my head, as long as there isn't weather below 0F (which is pretty rare here) for an extended amount of time, i believe our winter avg is in the high 10's/low 20s, and the birds are protected from wind/rain they should be ok?

I really liked McMurrays website, ordered a catalog. My friend and I have about 3 acres of land, we don't plan on using it all for animals, but would like some goats, turkeys, and chickens next year. This class came at the PERFECT time, i'm sure i'll have more questions. Thank you so much !

 

yuppers you have it right

I enjoy mcmurrays site and books etc,, there staff has always been very very helpful as well if i have any questions and have never had a screwed up order or anything either... aint nuthin better than the post office callin ya to come get your peepin demons at 5 am,,, i never realized govt employees got on job site so early til i ordered chicks
Three acres is a nice amount of land for just a few animals and some gardens etc,,, The topic on goats is just beginning so hopefully you can glean some info from there as well,,, and as always if you dont see something covered that yo uwould like covered just scream and holler a lil bit and we can include it ..

 

Do Ginnea hens have similar needs to chickens?

 

yup.. in alot of ways, they a lil bit different than chickens are....I think they are going to be the next set of critters to go over in here.

 

I hear that they are excellent for grasshopper control

 

Hi Y'all,
I hadda get in on the chicken talk I gots chickens, guienie, turkeys and cockatiels, plus we host a huge amount of freeflyers that like to hang out here.

We have around 100 birds, I'm only guessing here bc they won't be still so I can count them. I think we have 20 or so Turkeys, The Grays with the pretty feathers, like you see in the wild. They are Lynns favorite, he has been raising Turkeys for 20 yrs. They follow him around like hungry puppies. I never seen anything eat like a turkey. The phrase eat's like a bird would be the opposit in their case. They eat more per body weight then my cute little ass, Crackerjack.

My favorite chickens are Rhoad Island Reds and Domineckers. The Rhoad Island Ladies are so eleigant in their little red skirts of soft feathers and make good layin' and settin' Hens, as with the Dominecker in their checkered pantaloons, both large birds and lay 'big' dark brown eggs. The Red Roosters are beautiful with their colorfull tail feathers and can be deadly with their spurs. Plymuth Rocks look a lot like doms but are smaller and their pattens is more of a strip then a check. I found this out when a seller sold them as Dominecker. Their eggs are smaller and a real light brown. They are very similar when there are pullets.

We have Auracanas(sp) but they are mixed, they still lay blue and green eggs tho. I don't seem to have any that lay white eggs, bc I don't see any white ones in the basket in the mornings. Lynn gathers around 30 eggs a day.

The Guienie run free bc they don't reproduce caged. They are very strange looking little creatures, and have a unique way of talking, with a totally distinct sound, quiet unlike any chicken. They hang together and take turns sitting on the communal nest

We got some pure white ones last spring (about 20) and Lynn put them in with the turkeys and now they think they are turkeys, they can fly and roost in the Catapal trees but they stay with the turkeys even when the other guinie come through.

I love the sound of the Barnyard in the mornings, when all the critters are wakin' up and greeting the day. Then when they see their bucket of feed coming they really start to rock and roll, the whole corner vibrates with their joyous music.

It's utterly fantastic to hear. The Roosters, with their bold 'cock-a-doddle-do,, the Hens clucking in rythem, the donkey, taking the courus to hights unkown, with Breeze whinnying beside him, the guinie, with their 'pot-rack' adding demention and the herd of goats bleating in the background, with the hounds howling in harmony. With all that racket it is somehow peacefull.

So starts my day as the sun rises.

Bright Blessings
sh

 

Where I live it occasionally gets -40 (Fahrenheit or Celsius its the same thing) and regularly gets -30 Celsius. What kind of insulation is good for a winter coup? If nobody can help me here (and even if somebody does) I will make sure to check with the locals and see what they use.

 

It isnt so much the cold that is going to bother them. It is the moisture and draft levels. Those are what you have to be more concerned with over the cold temperatures . I would suggest putting yourself where the chickens would be and feeling around you,,Is it damp? Can you feel wind coming in. Some ventilation is always needed so keep that in mind however the chickens need to be able to be draft free and dry air. If it i s draft free and dry air then depending on how big of a coop one has a simple brooding light or two would help keep it from getting too cold and helps with light sources in winter months and if they are laying hens would also help with keeping production levels higher . Heritage breed chickens do better than other breeds in extreme conditions heat or cold so i would suggest possibly looking into the various breeds ( buff orphingtons are well known for there survivability) rather than crosses or fancy breeds etc..

one can always insulate the walls of the coop as well with insulation so long as it gets covered so that they do not peck and eat at it. Cardboard stapled otr tacked to the inside walls of a coop can also help in the insulation of a coop.


in all honesty, one is much more likely to lose a chicken from extreme heat than extreme cold...

 

There is no delicate way to say this... chickens are just about the stupidest creature on the face of the earth (turkeys run a close second)...

I don't say this to be mean to them... I say it as a forewarning to those getting into them for the first time.

Do not give them any credit for being able to figure something out. Even something simple that will save their lives.

When I was running the hog farm, the barn had a third story loft in it. One room was about 6 feet wide and 20 long. I set this room up for a bunch of layers... roosts, nesting boxes, automatic waterer, lights, both visible and heat lamps... was very proud of it all.

On the floor about half way down the length, there was a 2x4 nailed on its edge, forming a 3 1/2" 'wall' between the two halves of the room... the roosts and nesting boxes were on the one side, the feed, waterer and grit were on the other. Just below the level of the 2x4, there was a 3/4 inch hole in the wall (probably used to be a wire running there).

Well, one night the automatic waterer got stuck open and flooded half the room (up to the 2x4 and hole in the wall). We're talking 3 inches of water... in half the room... the other half, completely dry... with roosts and boxes that were also completely dry... I had 30 chickens the night before... 18 of them drowned...

The lessons here?

First.... Make sure that if something like a water line for whatever reasons, bursts, leaks, valve sticks open whatever, that your set up doesn't let it harm your critters...

Second.... Chickens are stupid... do not count on them to figure out that staying on the dry side of a 2x4 will save their life.... lol