Random Facts #54

after a week of shitty tv i think i finally fixed it

lost all even number transponders ..of course all the good channels are on the evens

put 2 new cable ends on and they came back so far


i like compression fittings...easy to use

 

It's fun to watch the 12 cats when I start up the vacuum cleaner...

 

And add more oxygen.

 

that methodology only works in fresh water, plus had to get the chiller as my coral were beginning to die when the temps got past 82.
in freshwater 10 days-2 weeks of 86-88 degrees kills ich, but not in salt water as they are different critters.
contemplating doing a freshwater dip just to try and kill/dislodge any critters in the gills.
But damn, it is a pain to actually catch them and with live coral in the tank, it is just that much more difficult.
I have a UV sterilizer on the system, but that only helps contain ginormous outbreaks

hyposalinity is really the only "safe" method, but it still entails having a separate tank because the lower salinity would kill the coral and inverts.
the wisest and safest course of action would be to setup a tank for the fish, keep that at a lower salinity and then leave the main tank with coral only so it is "fallow" as far as the parasites are concerned for 10-12 weeks.
I'm trying to avoid having to do all that........
AAAGGHHHHH!!!
:wall:

 

between the returns from the sump, the circulation pumps, the refugium and huge protein skimmer, oxygenation is thankfully NOT an issue.

my wrasses are doing fine, my damsel is fine, my bangaii cardinal looks fine, my lawnmower blenny is so/so, but my tang, clown and PJ cardinal (the guy peeking from the back) are by far fairing the worst now.

here is the powder brown a couple weeks ago. now he looks like a sugar donut...

 

I understand. The parasite oodinium forms a cyst on the body of the fish that protects it from outside attack. The higher temperature doesn't kill the parasite but causes it to abandon the cysts making them susceptible to various treatments. A running remedy would be to maintain a quarantine tank for new arrivals. Did you get your fish through the mail?

 

Fat vacuum tubes work well for capturing fish. Used to use them in the wild as opposed to a net.

 

No, I always buy from local stores.
The powder brown was sorta a "rescue" buy, but I'm beginning to regret it. Tangs are just very susceptible to ich and other parasites by virtue of their skin being relatively scaleless.
When I got him he was perfectly clear based on outward appearance and behavior, but any little stress can send them downhill.
while some of the most beautiful fish around, tangs are a royal pain. Haven't conversed with one saltwater keeper who hasn't had ich issues with tangs.
I've had other bouts with ich and oodinium before, but the fish were healthy enough to fight it off.
It was looking as if that would be the case again, but that damn tang keeps getting re-infested every 4-5 days as the bugs go through their life cycle. It is like having a ready breeding ground for them.
I wonder if I just remove him if the others would be able to get the upper hand again?

at least most of my corals are doing good and growing.

 

I know! I know!
:wall:

 

I think to interrupt the cycle you have to kill them in their free swimming phase. They infect the gills first and the cysts, yellow are a latter stage development. Fish is probably toast at that point. During free swimming stage they get their energy from photosynthesis so darkening the tank can weaken or kill them then.

 

yes, the visible cysts are essentially incubators where the parasite reproduces and is visible for about 3-5 days, then it will rupture or detach and release a ton of trophonts and they settle in the substrate and can remain there anywhere from 5 days to 75 days, hence the 10-12 week fallow period. When the trophonts have matured enough then the enter the free swimming stage in which they try to find a new host.
That is why it can have a roller coaster effect and take months to completely tackle.

I vacuum the substrate when doing water changes to help remove any trophonts in the substrate, have the UV on; an 18 watt medical grade germicidal lamp with an exposure area of less than 1/2" depth and a flow rate of >50 gph, feeding good quality food and try to maintain good water quality to help immune system is the course of action I'm kinda stuck with for now.

 

I admit toast and tang aren't the best breakfast. Haven't met anyone who really likes that space age wonder, (tang)

 

What about light deprivation. Would that adversely affect the other inhabitants? I kinda agree with the allow the tank to go fallow of hosts is probably the ultimate remedy.

 

Most coral are all fed by symbiotic algae in their tissues, so yes, light is a very crucial element, maybe even the most crucial in terms of inverts.

 

Wow! I talked to my brother a bit ago and they had a fatality at work last Friday. 21 yr. old dude got decapitated. That's crazy. My brother told me it was because numerous safety rules had to have been broken for that to happen and OSHA is all over their asses right now....as they should be. For the record...my brother wasn't in charge of that particular situation that day. He was off-site when it happened.

 

that's crazy!
what happened?

 

That is terrible!


The sunburn on top of my feet is a deep reddish-brownish-black this morning.

Never let your sandals rub off your sunscreen while walking to the beach. I had no idea!

I sat with a towel covering my feet for the last few days of vacation. It reminded me of when my dad use to wear a pair of white socks the whole time he was on the beach.

 

place that usually does my car inspections lost their licence

pain in the ass

 

great idea...where do you plug in the vacuum though?


rf about me...I could easily eat 12 pringles in 1 mouthful

 

fish heads fish heads..