Car question

start with 2000...wet sand only

then move to wetsanding with 3000


then again with 4000...and a final polish with plastic polish (available cheap at places that sell four wheelers)


dont get lazy ...spend 5 minutes on each step at least and they will come out looking like new



sandpaper graded past 2000 is hard to source...try an auto body supply place

 

Wetsanding? Just leave the water hose running while i sand away...?

 

Toothpaste would also work.

 

wet the paper...and keep it wet

and its a special type of sandpaper usually with fabric backing

 

The napa that is in my area only has 2000. I doubt ill be able to find 3000 and 4000.

 

body shop

its how they get the mirror shine

 

or china

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/5-sheets-San...ultDomain_0&hash=item3cc4b393f9#ht_1268wt_948

 

BBAD i have 2000 Wet Or Dry sandpaper. 5 big sheets, used by nascar performance blah blah blah

I have to order 3000, and 4000 if i want..but man..the 2000 is such fine paper, if i just used this wet and then some plastic clear and polish do i really need the 3000 and 4000?

Would you really notice the difference if only using 1 vs all 3?

Ill also add that the paper is 3M for clear coat sanding...

 

you could try the 2000 and then tons of polishing with liquid polish for plastics

but it wont be the same as doing it right


i think 2000 will still leave a lot of visible sanding scratches...just try it...yours are crap anyways lol..worst youll do is make them better than they are now



toothpaste does work too but plastic polish is better ...

random fact most people dont know is that toothpaste is a fine abrasive polish...some brands use volcanic ashes

 

All you need is a bottle of that (Plastx if the picture doesn't show), a buffing pad, and some elbow grease and you can get them back to new. Anything else is a waste of money and time. Used this for years, swear by it.

 

Hahaha kinky thats what i got! It is the same stuff. That is the exact bottle.

I have never used this before and the guy at the shop said it has had good feedback.

haha cool.

 

It's oxidation, there are kits available or you can wetsand it like bbad said. I'm pretty sure body shops and even tire shops do this shit for like $50.

I thought you had a good car question!

 

Their are no big stores here that sell anything, and all the mechanics to do anything are very expensive.

Why i was asking for car advice from ACE way back in the first place i have no fucking clue. That was dumb as hell of me.

 

but if you do it right the first time ...you dont have to keep re-doing it year after year

 

You don't have auto parts stores, tire chains like tire kingdom, body shops? Where do you live, Greenland?

 

Also, this is not mechanical work. A mechanic will send you to a body shop. Go offer some kid at an auto parts store $20 and he'll be buffing that shit out for hours just to try to prove he can fix something.

 

I didnt read the whole thread so Im not sure exactly whats been said but its just oxidation.

Ive had quite a few cars (20+) like that, so far the best solution Ive found (including using those kits) is:
Mothers Aluminum Polish, rub in circles till you see a visible improvement, how much just depends on how bad your headlights are. Make sure you keep some paste on there and don't dry it all up rubbing. Then wipe off with a clean rag.
I usually finish by wiping the headlights off with brake fluid (NOT cleaner) which will take any build up (paint, tar etc.) off.

 

No the bottom line is your patching something not fixing it. Oxidation happens in plastic because it is pours, it gets worse as it gets older. Your never going to make it new again.

 

I actually don't even remember the last time we had to use it. When we were getting the thing running the first time in 2007, I think. I use it for other stuff besides headlights. I guess I should have been more specific on what I had been using it on for years. lol

 

why not just drive in the day time.. just saying..