Greetings from Iran

First Dispatch:


Its early morning and I'm sitting comfy in a hotel in Yazd. A really old
building. It has meticulous murals decorating every roofspace with little
birds singing and flitting about above a central fountain surrounded by
persian cushions and hookas. I'm going to snooze now for a couple of hours
then check out the town. Lots of winding alleys, mud dome arches and dust
interspersed with psychedelic farsi signs scrolled here and there.

K

~~~~~~~

Second Dispatch:

wehay!
Hot dust lung scouring madness! Lots of wierd and wonderful ancient alleys
hidden and twisting through an alien world of brown rendering against a
featureless deep blue sky. I collected a gaggle of giggling children on the
way. Leading me further into the maze of high walls, archways and gnarled
wooden doors. Here and there I'd stumble across a mosque towering into the
sky totally covered in ornamental squiglage and shockingly coloured tiles.
Lots friendly types, especially when you give a resounding 'salem alekum'
when meeting in the street. There's a pervading sense of the locals wanting
to out do each other in being hospitable. I had my first taste of Iranian
traffic on the back of a motorbike of some random chap who knew I had a long
way to walk. It's not too bad, mostly based on hearing the warning beeps and
revs coming at you from all sides.
I've had some in depth talks with strangers in the street. They're rather
keen to talk about the state of the world, philosophise etc. We commiserated
with each other that the media in both our countries is full of a pack of
lies. Ignorance breeds fear etc. I've not instigated any of these supposedly
taboo conversations either.
Its all much better than I expected. The food is fantastic and I've been
toking away on the hooka whilst drinking gallons of tea. There's a custom
here where the payee has to refuse ( at least the first four times) payment
for anything and depend on the payer's insistance to pay. Its been quite a
laugh going through the ritual now and again.
So I've wandered around the ancient city of Yazd today. Tomorrow I'll
investigate the Zororastrian's and their four thousand year old flame in the
temple. (Better not spill my drink).

p.s.
Well, contrary to an Iranian friend's advice its scorching hot here. For me
that is, its all relative I suppose! I'm going to head for the mountains as
soon as possible!
I have the entire hotel to myself it seems. Although there's quite a few
locals in the garden/courtyard chatting away under the birds singing from
the rafters. Off peak season... in Iran!

catch ya later,
Kev

~

 

Wow, that sounds amazing. Never knew you were planning a trip to Iran. What made you decide to go?

 

What he said!!

Wow.. keep us posted and pics of the mountains would be loverly!!!

 

What's the totty like over there?

 

heheh, I'm doing my best not to even glance at the exotic hot totty over here thankyou, I don't want something chopped off!!

I've always wanted to visit Iran. I like ancient civilizations. I'm going to Persepolis tomorrow. I've just arrived in Shiraz. Unfortunately for me its the end of the fast and tourists are a big no no today. I was really hoping to see inside the mausoleum of Shah e Cheragh tonight but was turned away for the infidel that i am. I've been wanting to see inside for the last five years ever since watching a documentary on the amazing mirror tilework. ah well, maybe tomorrow after I've made some local friends that can come with me.

I arrived from Yazd by a scary seven hour ye olde bus journey over the mountains this morning. The guy sitting next to me kept feeding me all sorts of food. I wasn't allowed to refuse! Shiraz doesn't seem as friendly though, maybe because its just a bigger city. (Or my timing is rather bad as mentioned above). All in all, so far so good! I've got to make my cash last until the Turkish border then I can change some cheques and make it to Istanbul and then, and then... as far as possible!



..oh, forgot to tell you:
After wandering around the ancient city of Yazd I investigated the Zororastrian's and their four thousand year old flame in the temple of Ateshkadeh. All quite solemn and impressive. I took a suicidal taxi ride south of the city to 'The Towers of Silence'. And silent there were indeed. Giant hilltop constructions designed specifically for the Zororastrians to leave their dead for the birds to eat. (They didn't want to pollute one of the sacred elements - earth)

 

wow. sounds really great. have a fantastic time for the rest of it.

 

Aye up kid

 

Dharma,

Iran..I did it twice..on the hippie trail towards India..
first time via Tehran-Yazd-Kerman-Bam-Zahedan...
train to Quetta(Baluchistan)great adventure..
Second time I went va Afghanistan..so Tehran-Mashad.
into Afghanistan via Herat..Iran in these days was far
better then now..no ayatolla regime..friendly people..
try to eat some abghost..served in a pot..cheap as well.
tutun..is a waterpipe..you'll find it in any café or resto..
I came back via Tabriz..rugged area on the Turkish border...
crossed via Bazargan into Dogubayazit.and in Agri..there was
50cm of snow..I think Iran is a great country..
with a very ancient civilization..I did not visit Shiraz+Persepolis..
I used to speak a bit of Farsi..similar to Pasthu(Afghanistan)
Dharma..you make me jealous..because you bring the gypsie
spirit again in me..thanks for your travell adventures
Emiel

 

hey old tiger, good to see your posts. thanks for the help with my pictures.
hippiewise

 

Thanks,Hippiewise..if anyone of you ever wants to travel to Iran..

http://www.salamiran.org/CT/Tourism/index.html
Emiel

 

sounds amazing

im quite jealous

enjoy the rest of your travels...

 

A wonderful report, I was lucky to stumble onto it - Thanks for writing!

 

Thanks for the well wishing guys.

Heyup Old Tiger, It was great to read your post. Yeh, the government is NOT liked here by the general populace it seems. I don't bring up the subject, the guys dragging me into their houses for tea etc always talk about it. They really hate the mullahs here!

Its also upsetting to read the poetry of their favoured poets from centuries ago. Omar Khayyam for example. Writing of love, parties, wine, more wine, song and general frivolity. All frowned upon here now. (in public anyway).

Here's the next dispatch:




Persepolis! Absolutely mind blowing!!
I've always thought we don't give our ancestors enough credit. This gigantic stone complex thousands of years old only prooves my point.
I arrived there very early and had the whole place virtually to myself. On the way the taxi driver had pink floyd and leonard cohen blaring away The only drawback was that some rather disturbing remix resulted from every bump in the road - and there were quite a few.

My mind was wiped clean of such aural endurance when I first set my eyes on the huge raised stone platform that supported various temple pillars, plinths and gateways. What hit home the most whilst wandering amongst the towering bass reliefs was how the ancient depictions of gods, beasts and man all echoed from that distant moment in time to many aspects of our lives today. There was a sense of familiarity with the human mind when attempting connection with life long gone thousands of years ago. A truly impressive feat of engineering, architecture, art, and culture.

I went to visit the tombs of a few regent/emperors carved high up the cliff faces. Took some pictures of the impenetrable mosiac-like cuniform writing chipped into various walls. I had a bit of a clamber round off the path skippy along with lizards up over cliff edges to the laughing shouts of my taxi driver far below. "Hospital! Crazy Irish! Hospital! haha!"

Once back in Shiraz city I cleaned up and went for another go at getting into the Shah e Cheragh mausoleum...

~

 

oooh dots at the end.... wait and seewhat happens......

its all very exciting.

 

I'm really enjoying this too......I can just imagine the first publication of your slim and elegant guide book for the discerning traveller........" A distressed gentleman's guide to Iran".....or something similar

 

Please write some more, write about any of your experiences there, dosent have to be sight seeing related, details please!

This is friggin great

 

oh man kev i'm so jealous! I'm itching to travel and let my feet fly!

 

...An hour or so later after wandering through the maze alleys of the bazaar I made it into the mausoleum complex no problem. I quietly crossed the large pristine square with its raised pool and surrounding facade of intricate archways, passed all the people in solemn silence washing their hands, feet and head. I then politely addressed a man guarding a wide sculpted green marble walkway; he said I could (without shoes of course) walk up to the entrance door of the mausoleum proper and look in from there.

The gravity of the devout feeling impressed upon me from the whispered prayer, bowed heads, occasional kissing of the entrance doors and a tangible atmosphere of reverence pouring out from people around me. (I had the uncomfortable feeling of being a bit of a trespasser!)

I was quite stunned when I managed to look inside. Thousands upon thousands of small mirrored tiles covered the entire hall inlaid with shining silver and gold. The depth of the large chamber was impossible to measure from all the refracted and reflected light shining from every surface. I closed my jaw and blinked with effort. I know any mosque or mausoleum is going to find it hard to top this in my estimation. The place has had quite an effect on me, coupled with Persepolis in the same day; Shiraz is a must for any traveler!

Mind you, I was yet to contact a local friend I'd made on the plane to Tehran. It just gets better believe me!

Khoda hafez

 

Dharma,

I missed Shiraz..what a pity..these mosaics..real nice..
i enjoyed strolling in the bazars of Tehran and Kerman..
I used to speak a bit of Farsi.I forgot all of it now..
I remember gar khodjast??where is the station??
Iranians like dialogue..i met some students in Tehran..
who invited me for a cup of tea or abghost..
or pillav/nan...recently 2 Belgian adventurous chicks
drove Belgium-India on a motorbike..very funny fact..
in Bazargan..they had to drive in Iranian way..
that means long robes...on a motorbike
Khuda Hafez,Dharma...
Emiel