I want bass subwoofers underneath my back seat. I wanna know what is the best speakers for around 100-150$ I have Infinity speakers now for my stereo. It gets pretty good bass already but I dont want the crackling sound. I want smooth and deep, not so much loud... im sure it doesnt matter if they have to be infinity bass but that'll be nice. nice speakers... how do you install them too.. I know little about speakers.. thanks! lulu
wow. sounds to me like you should really enlist the help of a qualified amateur. Basically you should go to the store and listen to the speakers before you buy them. Some are designed for clarity and some are designed for raw power. And each installation is different. What kind of car is it? why under the seat? normally the subs go into the trunk. If it's a pickup truck then they make special boxes that are angled to fit behind the slim gaps behind the seats. The boxes might be what's causing the rattling in the subs to begin with. maybe new enclosures? and what kind of amp do you have?
Yeah I have a sebring jxi. It makes sense to put it in the trunk. I just liked the under the seat ideal. but since I cant do it.. its all Infinity brand
Aye, don't install it yourself. Let someone else do it, trust me, if you want the best sound, you'll let someone who knows exactly what they're doing put it together. Try to find a friend who is into that stuff, it's times like these I wish Daniel and I lived everywhere at once so he could help you with this, he's a friggin' genius with car stereo setups. And remember, you get what you pay for. Cheap subs = cheap bass. Don't don't doooon't take it to Best Buy to get it set up, either. They sell decent speakers, but they are too rushed to do a good job.
The sub almost always goes in the trunk. You will need an amp, amp wiring kit, the subwoofer, and a box. A ported box is louder, sealed boxes sound tighter/cleaner but you need more power to get it to sound good, which means a bigger amp and more $ I doubt you will be installing it yourself because it involves running a few wires throughout the vehicle (removing of panels, running power through the fire wall, under seat, etc). Power wire from the battery to the trunk, RCA's from the head-unit to the trunk, a ground wire from the amp to a solid metal ground in the trunk area, as well as a amp turn on lead from the head-unit to the trunk. Once you wire the amp up and it's powered/grounded you wire the sub-woofer to the amp, probably the easiest step. You want to make sure to disconnect your battery as well for safety. There are more details, but that's the basics for how it will be ran. Just because you have Infinity speakers doesn't mean you need an Infinity sub or amp, and actually they don't make very good subs/amps IMO. The crackling you hear from the speakers more than likely from the head-unit not producing the correct amount of power to them, and when you turn it up it gets distorted. You can install the sub and turn the bass on the head-unit all the way down, and treble up, because the amp will have adjustments on it so you wont need to run bass through your speakers. Most people replace the speakers and think they will sound good, and they will, but when you crank them with a stock head-unit it is sure to distort, especially the bass. Infinity speakers are not good for bass, but rather good for clarity with the appropriate power to them. I'd recommend a 10" sub woofer for some decent bass and the price in a ported box with the correct amp. You can go to Best Buy or even a Wal-Mart to find a good sufficient setup for around $300. *Best Buy is not too rushed to do a good job, they have excellent installers for a good price, compared to an actual car audio shop who will charge you out the azz. It's quite simple to install, I did mine in under an hour, and a lot of others in about the same time...
*but go to Best Buy before Wal-Mart...and also Sony Xplodes are alright, but you can get waaaay better*
Also don't buy an amp that will blow out the sub. If the sub is capable of 400 rms don't buy an amp that puts out higher, even though the MAX RMS will be noted at say 800, it doesn't mean it can handle 800 RMS (all the time) it only can handle 400 consecutively. The max RMS is there to protect the sub if there is a quick increase in power for a moment. This is most important. The amps RMS and MAX RMS should match that of the sub or be extremely close. Or you will fry it... **And BTW you will not find a complete setup installed for 100-150 anywhere. I know it for a fact. Amps alone cost that much. The cheapest set-up I've seen sold in stores was one from Pep Boys called SPX and they sold the amp/sub/wiring kit for $150, not installed.. and will probably last you about 5 months
DMT knows what's up. I just cannot type that much lol. Listen to him about the RMS/Peak RMS issue. Also, Make sure all your speakers are phased properly (connected with the same polarity) otherwise itll sound like dookie.
wow thank you everyone! it really helps me out. I wrote down important things so i remember but thank you. I will make sure to save up and i know a couple people who know how to do the hook up.
Fantastic! There's not a lot of stuff I suggest you don't go to the "professionals" for, but that is one of them. Haha.
