question about cheese amongst other Qs

I have just put in 6 cheese cuttings under a 600w sodium 10ltr buckets using biograde soil and canna terra/vega nutrients.

This will be my 2nd year of growing now

Last crop was exact same strain 24 plants 12 pots 2 per pot but on a fllod and drain system using 2x 400w and 1x 600w bulbs and house & garden nutrients. During wk 3-4 of the flowering period i had unwanted visitors so all went up into cold loft without lights for 48 hrs. Before they went up the 24 plants looked like 1 big thick mass of green plants. When they went back into grow room they looked like 24 skinny plants can you please tell me would this be the reason why i only got 12 dry ounces yeild And any advice for my next 6 please thanks

Check out my photos gonna take pics of my 6 babies and do a weekly blog in return i would like advise plz

 

Without more of a description of the attic environ, like what the temp ranges were, which uninsulated would of course closely follow the external ambient environmental curves during mild weather downwards, any old glass fibre insulation or very dusty up there, things like that, not easy to fathom. Did leaves drop off soon after returning to their optimised environ?

At a guess, an anomalous temp flux from grow room to the cold attic caused hypothermal shock which caused some systemic retardation, but that'd need a wide flux and something like a dip to <50f [Like basking in 80f+ swinging rapidly to below <50f and not climbing too much over the 48hr period then swinging sharply back to 80f+, not likely to happen in nature outside armageddon.].
Did they catch an outside frost cooling the attic?

Could be possible dust severely clogged leaf stomata and caused development to slow, old glass fibre could do same, if you've got that stuff it's not good for your health either so get a gov' grant and change it out to rockwool.

Purely a guess though, if you have a little study of the attic and consider relevancy then describe it my head could whirr, clank, bed-doinnnngg, a better answer for you, a picture maybe.

Paxus.

 

plant drooping for approx 3+ days after goin back to grow room but only usual bottom leaves yellowing and falling off. No insulation in loft and very cold (end november uk) I got the cuttings from a friend who is outdoor grower and they had spider mite but i sprayed them with organic spray and it didnt cure it but virtually got rid come cropping time it was hard to tell i had them. I took cuttings from them at 5wks old and a friend had them. I have recently been to my friend and took cuttings from him at 5wks old which are the 6 i am now growing am i taking cuttings too early pls help

 

The drooping leaves indicate it was the temp's, pretty sure when you say that mate.

Loss of osmotic pressure within the organism is symptomatic to thermal flux shocking the system this was undoubtably exacerbated by being weakened by the mite who are parasitic and drain sap and so energy from the plants, them still likely on a recovering curve, then subject to a wide thermal flux, yep, that'd do it, retard them.

Live and learn bruv, best to put a frost tube or thermostat fan heater in there next time.

Neem is good against mites, your garden centre will stock a couple of adequte pesticides you can use if you're not fussed, they can be used to treat a current infestation or presence with systemic application via rootwash and topical misting if still vegging them or pre budset, also use to innoculate a next generation grow via a rootwash again, which poisons the well as it were. If budding, best to just use Neem sparingly in external application, can still use pesticide systemically though, avoiding the wetting of buds as much as possible, budrot is a risk and greater the more dense and compact buds are, loose buds generally less susceptable to moulds/rotting.

All i can say is try to dial it in as best as possible so they are otherwise healthy and fight with Neem or pesticide as a secondary issue when you've got mites is not good, as you've seen with the others and temp' swings, a PH issue or over fert could be fatal if already weakened.

One tip, when plants get sick, it's better to reduce demand on them until they recover by backing off the lights and slowing photosynthesis, a common mistake is to think more light will give them energy but the opposite is true, if you had Flu all week you wouldn't want to run a marathon would you, intense light is asking a plant to do just that.

You've got a lot of light there and if your plants get sick, that intensity could cause light poisoning, if your plants get ill or weakened again, i advise dropping to just the 600w and raising that to a couple of foot above tops, until your plants regain vigour, then return the intensity.

Hope things improve for ye bruv.

Paxus.

 

Thanks alot Paxus you truely are a growing GOD!! Just 1 more Q am I taking cuttings too early and from too many generations? When my plants are 5 wks I take cuttings from them and put them in my veg room. I do not have a mother plant

 

Leafitout-
I looked at your pictures and in my opinion your garden is way too bushy. You have very little light penetration. The canopy is getting enough light but the bottom leaves look like they are not getting any light at all. I wouldn't have more than one plant per container and even then, I would probably trim the bottom leaves. The only thing that the bottom leaves are doing are using up alot of nutrients with very little production -something to take into consideration.
A tip- if you spray your plants with a mild mist of water every second day or so you will notice if you are getting any kind of spider mites. The webs will be very noticeable.

PAX

 

At 5 weeks it is on or just past the average maturity where the plant expresses gender but preflowers may take up to a few weeks more to show the consensus is sex will be determined in the plant at 5 weeks and is considered the earlest window really.

That is mainly influenced by a primary advantage in cloning where the age and sexual maturity is passed contiguously, so a cutting struck from a 5 week old plant will root/establish as a 5 week old so you can say from 7 days rooted and then planted into soil or hydro for 10 days vegging, apical tip development etc, that the clone is essentially then about 6.5 weeks old and should flower almost immediately on introducing 12/12 regimen.

So the cuttings you've taken will flower rapidly when you decide they are right for projected growth to your flowering environ.

Of course, the older the mother/host, the faster the faster a clone will preflower and budset because the host plants mechanisms for producing phytochromes will be as developed in the small clone as host, the clone just needs do grow structure to the organism because flowering hormones are actively being produced when taken more mature than before 5 weeks.

If you mean you don't have a mother now, select a decent clone to develop as a mother and just keep that on 24/00, if you don't have another environment to veg seperate from flowering, one can construct a small mother chamber from a strong cardboard box, light fitting, 20wCFL per mother, aluminium baking tray to easily serve as reflector, PC fan for intake at bottom and side of box, something for to cover a vent made of cut strips in side of box positioned above level of CFL, paint inside flat white and tray for bottom of box, wire light fitting(s) and configure holes to a little narrower than fitting, screw into bakngtray/reflector tightly and secure reflector in position, i used medium guage wire for hanging when i built a 12x CFL array so it'll cope wih one or a few, attach fan, decorate box with large opening in front fr easy access and just drape some fabric to cut light and you can keep it in your bedroom, or sitting room if like me you don't get worried about growing.

Masking tape wound tightly on all sides of box near edges will serve to strengthen,

Similar can be fashioned from plastic storage containers for cool looks and stealth factor.

Sure you'll tweak design to the basic idea.

If that's not what ye meant, please elucidate the issue a tad.

Regards genetic drift, ask 10 long time cloners and you'll likely have 5 say genetic drift happens within 10 generation upwards, the other 5 will say otherwise, i feel consensus on drift affecting performance and potency will last as long as Sodium Vs Halide.

Personally i feel drift may occur but only after a hell of a lot of generations, like add a zero, 100. But you can maintain a small mother for easily 5 years before developing a replacement, 10-20 year mothers are not unheard of with understanding and care. So the question is, are you likely to be keeping the strain through mothers for more than 50 years, if not then 10 or 100, doesn't really matter.

Some like to replace a mother on constant rotation every few months for years, as i've read several places by people i can respect and they claimed not to notice degredation, others cloning mothers within similar parameters swore blind they turn to crap in a few generations, one thing i notice though is people who say Cannabis cloning drift is bad are usually those who piss a lot of people off having to be right about everything and come and go through communities fast never to be seen by their username again, you know the type.

But, Cannabis is a diverse gene pool and some will prove better than others, immho.

I'm Delta by the way, paxus is just peace in Latin.

Anything else you think i may be able to help you with?

 

Good tip there PAX.

 

Thank you all so very much for your advice much appreciated

 

No worries dude, hope it's of use.

Good of you to say thanks to us matey.

 

Hey delta I took ur advise and been and bought neem oil.

Because im still at the transplanting the cuttings from the nursery to pots I have made up a bucket of neem solution with warm water and have dipped the whole plant in right to the bottom of the stem.

I am gonna repeat this process a further 2 times with a rest period of 3 days between treatments.

I know that I probably wont cure the mites but im gonna give em hell!

 

Make sure you've got 2 misting bottles.

PAX's tip is a good one, to mist clear to check for recurrence.

Hit with Neem mist.

With Neem i only usually say to use externally and use a proper pesticide that is human crop safe, to systemically innoculate, but that's fine, i've read quite a few people using as you've done and they've noted impovement, or not posted again.

Pesky blighters!

Not had trouble with them in relation to my weed but in general gardening they really piss me off, especially foothold in Rosebeds, nightmare.