difference btwn benezene & xlyene 4 msc extrctn MANY MORE QUESTIONS

1. Anyone know the pros and cons of using Benezene or Xylene for mscln extraction?

I read this post: http://www.clearwhitelight.org/hatter/extract.htm

and i've read the thread on this forum about mesc hcl &

2. Has anyone ever done it with sulfuric acid or have an knowledge on the process? or know certain info about what PH readings should read during each step when using sulfuric acid with benezene or xylene?
From polymers posts about making mescaline citrate and hcl I've come to a conclusion that keeping a ph balance with each step is necessary to get the desired final product of pure or close to pure mesc...

to spend a day or two making the product, one must take pride by extracting the best....


The two extraction methods are essentially the same, but result in two "diff" types of mescaline....

3. Since sulfate takes more of a dose then mescaline hydrochloride, but harvests with sulfate produce more crystals then mesc hcl.....would there be a way to convert the mesc sulfate into mesc hcl? therefore giving more of a harvest, but slightly more potent?

4. any tips for starting with 96 oz of san pedro? roughly equalling out to 2688 grams? by this i mean applying exact numbers of acid, xylene or benezene (whatever the intermediate is), water, etc, etc.

Eager to learn.... a lot of detailed wieghty questions....would be appreciated if you'd answer.

Thanks for your time and help.....Happy new year.....all of your incite has pushed me to join the forums and ask questions many of you are very knowledgable. if something is going to be done it should be done with the most knowledge possible and utmost responsibility.

 

1. Xylene is much safer to handle, as benzene is known to definitely cause leukemia, because the liver metabolyzes any that enters the body into an epoxide; xylene has no such metabolites. they're both nonpolar, and there's really no advantage to using benzene.

2. I've used sulfuric... let me just tell you, it's a really strong acid. It took my pH meter all the way down to 0.3 ; if you decide to use it, be very careful, and use a strong base, like NaOH. Personally, HCl is my acid of choice; it doesn't oxidize your skin if it gets on it, and it's easier to manage, and it's 11% lighter than sulfuric, so less product is needed for an effect (it's more potent by mass)

and you're right...it will be an all day affair (perhaps two), so get comfortable, and have fun. you'll be really happy you took your time.

3. yes, that's correct. you'd essentially add your sulfate salts to dilute HCl (hcl in distilled water, pH ~ 3), and add ammonia until the pH is about 6 or 7, then evaporate.

4. when you have the mess all sorted out, cook it in acidic water in a pressure cooker (not necessary, but it sure helps). add enough water to make it the consistency of tomato soup, and add pool acid dropwise, until the pH is about 4, even 3 is ok.
There are no precise amounts to the technique, really, since it's not possible to calculate the potency of the cactus (as for the xylene, don't worry about the amounts, just use about 1/3 xylene to green liquid during each extraction) , just monitor the pH to keep on track

 

1. Was just wondering if this was a good way to purifiy the mesc.... Could it be done multiple times? Will it effect the harvest of the final product? by a pinch do they mean: 1/8 of a tsp of less?
Pertaining to question 1:
"The next step is to purify the mescaline sulfate crystals. After either of these methods has been carried out dissolve the dry crystals in 200 ml of near-boiling distilled water. Add a pinch of activated charcoal (Norite) and filter while still hot through #2 filter paper. The hot water which contains the mescaline will pass through the filter. The Norite absorbs impurities from the mescaline. After the liquids have passed through the filter pour a little more hot water over the filter to rinse through any remaining mescaline which may have impregnated the filter paper."

2. How would one press mesc into a pill? or would it be easier to use a gel tab?

3. I also saw the how to make mesc video....I know he used plastics which is a big NO NO and that probably resulted in his mescaline being black.....the mesc should be pure white right?

 

1. that is called a "hot filter" technique, it's a recrystallization technique commonly used in the lab, and yes, it's very effective. It won't drastically reduce your yield, but it definitely cleans it up. A pinch is just that..a pinch, or a dash; some arbitrary small amount, like one shake of a salt shaker.

2. you'd want to encapsulate it, rather than press it. much less hassle, and less suspicious.

3. pure mesc will be, white or off-white, after you decolorize it with activated charcoal. if you notice from my pics on the mesc. extraction thread, I didn't bother using it...if I did, that end product would be white. it's ultimately up to you; a few washes with acetone should get it pretty clean.

and yes... avoid using rubber and commercial grade plastics with xylene, or any other aromatic solvent; these chemicals break down these materials, and may contaminate the product to some extent.

 

where does one obtain distilled water, a syphon, and a seperatory funnel? I'm guessing any glass should be pyrex?

 

distilled water can be obtained at a grocery store, a siphon is basically a turkey baster (but those are plastic). get a sep funnel on ebay.

Pyrex is a brand, so are Kimax, Simax, Bomex, Labglass, Borosil, Chemglass, and Corning. They're all borosilicate glass, and suitable for use with aromatic solvents.

 

is there a way to test purity of the final product? If so how and where does one get the kit or things needed?



Thanks again for all your help!

 

melting point test is the easiest way to test for purity. trying to get a 'mel-temp' is another issue...they usually sell for 600 - 900 from lab surplus stores, but occaisionally they can be found on ebay; saw one that sold once for 83 ducks, sometimes they sell for more (150+). if you see one there, snag it. I'll probably get one in the new year.

you're also going to need capillary tubes to put the sample in, those can be bought cheaply, do a search online. also, you'll need the digital thermometer for the mel-temp, to get accurate readings. it's a hassle to get all this stuff together, but it's the quickest, easiest way to test for purity...the alternative is taking your sample to a reference lab, or setting up a $40,000 GC/MS system, or just run TLC (much cheaper) if you know the RF values (personally, I suck at TLC, despite the ease of setup)

 

where do i purchase xylene? Is there a specific form of xylene to buy? I've been looking around and I am quite confused.... if you could give me an exact brand and "model #" to buy it'd be a big help or even a link.

 

xylol = xylene.

find it in a hardware sto'