did i overlime leaves are yellow (this is outdoors)

so i gave my friend a foot tall plant he planted it and then after 4 days he put a handfull of lime around the plant because his dad has a normal garden and told him lime "sweetens the soil" because the acid from rain builds up in the ground now all the leaves toward the bottom are dieing. Is the lime preventing nutrient intake and if so how can i fix this being that the plant is in the ground and its near impossible to flush a plant in the ground? i was thinking that since lime cancels out acid i could cancel out lime with acid but then salt gets built up please help guys im begging yah.

 

Lime doesn't work nearly that fast. While you want a slightly acid ph, maybe around 6 or a little lower, growing in a ph of 7 or more shouldn't cause the immediate problem your pal ran into. Shit, the stuff IS a weed and can get by in about anything. Best conditions give the best results, but I'd look elsewhere for his problem if it really turns out to be a problem. Sometimes plants get a little transplant shock and recover, sometimes they die.

 

Try removing the top soil to get rid of the lime. Check the ph before adding or changing anything. When the ph is correct water with plain water and hope it recovers.

 

Marijuana is not--I REPEAT IS NOT--a weed.
The definition of a weed is a plant that man has not yet found a use for. Something you pull up and throw away.
To cops and republicans marijuana may be a weed, but it certainly isn't to those who know it's benefits.

Dandelions may be a weed to some folks, but to those who know how to use it to make tea and flavorings, it's a beneficial plant.

 

Fine Lime works in hours. Don't fool yourselves....

Doesn't seem like many folks here have much idea of pH and calcium. Magnesium and potassium are more alkaline that calcium.

You can bring those plants back by hitting them with magnesium and potassium foliarly. Scrape off the excess calcium on top of the soil. Apply some phosphorus on the soil and a little foliarly. You will need to make sure you have adequate boron. Alot depends on what kind of soil you have. If there is more clay, you don't want to use magnesiu on the ground. It will waterlog the soils. Magnesium you can keep applying foliarly forever as it is translocatable, meaning it will go where the plant wants it. Other elements, such as zinc, manganese, iron and calcium, must be taken up by the roots, foliar applications help, but for a real good root system, you have to apply them on the soil. One must be careful if you are in a high iron area, don't apply more!!!! This goes for manganese as well....

When you all post fotos, make sure you get fotos of the older leaves, not just the tops. Many elements deficiencies or toxicities don't present themselves on the newer leaves. Magnesium for example. Magnesium will give you an interveinal chlorosis, veins stay green.... A 1% mangesium sulfate (epsom salts) foliar application a couple times a week will knock that problem away. And with no magnesium, you can't make chlorophyl (green color) and that means no sugars..... no resin...

What kind of soil are you in? Do you have any fotos of the older leaves? Did they die yet???

There had to be some signs, green veins, etc.... sounds like magnesium and metal deficiencies, zinc, iron, manganese and magnesium together... a good drench would work with these elements along with a heavy compost tea.....

 

Seems to me people are obsessed with deficiences. I have found more often than not nutrient deficiency is not the problem. Magnesium deficiency is about the only one I have come across. Generally overdoing something is more likely to be the problem.

 

Growing a plant is a balancing act. A soil only has a limited capacity to hold elements. If you over apply one element, another is pushed out. If there is not a good balance, you loose root growth, plant potential etc. Long before the problem appeared visually you lost plant potential. Most folks over fertilize. In the soiless mediums, there is hardly any capture or holding capacity, what we agronomists call cation exchange capacity. A soilless mix has a capacity of 2 or 3 or less. A sand about the same. A soil can range from 6 to 120. It takes a lot less fertilizer to fill up the tank of 6 than it does the tank of the 120. That is why you have to fertilize super diluted on light soils and soil less mixes. This is why you need compost and decomposed organic material. It makes the tank bigger. You go from a 2 or 3 to a 12 or 15. Four to five times more holding and most important, buffering capacity.

All fertilizers are salts. Plants don't like salts. When the tank is full and overflowing, you have burn, chlorosis and at the extreme, death.

Science has demonstrated the need for a balance of at least 15 elements in growing a plant, personally I know it is more. A have had excellent results in reducing diseases in mango trees in several parts of the world using cobalt, tiny homeopathic dosages. Works great.

And you would be amazed at what a deficiencies or dis balance causes. Yields can vary by 400%.