i can get enviornment friendly LEADED substitute!

PEace,

yes the new version WITH REAL terethonyl lead! has a chemical that doesnt allow it to get out of the motor and the stuff that does is VAPORIZED by the sun!

http://www.batterystuff.com/fuel/lead_supreme130/lead_supreme130.htm

PLEASe let me hear your input!

later

the pleased flower child

 

I had chili for lunch. Not sure if you could vaporize this gas..

 

get VAPORIZED by the sun!

p s . do you have any TUMS?

 

I'll call BULLSHIT on this one.

If all the lead got deposited on the valves and valve seats, and STAYED THERE, eventually, the valves wouldn't be able to close anymore. So where is it going? Right out the tailpipe, and into the air and soil.

And while sunlight MIGHT be able to break down some lead COMPOUNDS, it ain't gonna do a THING to elemental lead, which is toxic in it's own right. All the sunlight in our planet's HISTORY isn't going to change lead into any other element.

If you have an old engine that required leaded gas, you (and the environment) will be far better off by installing hardened valve seats and running it on premium unleaded gas.

 

Something is wrong with the description of that product.

First, it's only approved by the EPA for off-road use (although most places that sell it don't tell you this). EPA registered doesn't mean it's legal for on-road use. It's meant for high compression engines that need high octane.

Sunlight doesn't get rid of the lead.

You don't need all that lead in there to protect the valve seats either. Only a very small fraction of lead is needed to protect the valves compared with the amount needed to increase the octane rating. Today's unleaded fuel doesn't require an octane boost for normal engines and on-road use. Hence, there's no reason to use such high amounts of lead in a regular on-road vehicle.

As a comparison, about 0.1 grams/gallon of tetraethyl lead is needed to protect valve seats. Aviation fuel has about 4 grams/gallon to boost the octane. That's 40 times as much as that needed to protect the valves. You could probably use 1/40th of what they tell you to use on that website and still get valve protection (assuming you're not interested in boosting the octane rating).

Non-lead substitutes are available for valve seat protection, such as potassium, sodium, and phosphorus. They form a thin oxide layer on the valve seat that reduces wear. They are environmentally friendly and EPA approved for on-road use.

Also, many engines made to run on leaded gasoline won't have valve seat damage if they are run mildly. The valve seat problems tend to occur with engines run hard at high speed.

There are some advantages in going with the non-lead valve treatments. Lead can contaminate the oil after a while. It can also form a coating on valve stems that can cause problems. It can also form a conductive layer on spark plugs which can short out the plug.

 

Peace,


true. but whats makes it nessasary for cars to have lubricant is overhating the piston. and going at 60 down the highway for even 10 minutes will overheat the piston. and i have lead substitutes & i thought some real terethynal lead will help me car. i dont plan on putting harder seats in her. she is my baby. i want her to be as original as posable.

later


the tired flower child

 

Well, you can use a small fraction of the amount of tetra-ethyl lead that the website says to use. Also, lubrication of the piston is a separate issue from the valve seat wear.

 

Tetraethyl lead performs 2 separate functions, boosting the octane to prevent detonation (knocking), and acting as a high temperature lubricant to prevent valve seat recession. The overheating of the pistons is caused by detonation, which is eliminated by modern premium fuels, which have high octane without the lead.

Yeah, but exactly how far will you take this? Do you still have bias ply tires on the car, or have they been replaced with modern radials? Still running the original hoses and belts? Do you use non-detergent straight 30-weight motor oil, or modern multi-viscosity synthetic blends? Do you still add water to the battery regularly, or is it maintenance free?

It isn't like the valve seats are even VISIBLE from the outside of the car, and an upgrade here goes a LONG way toward making an older car more compatible with modern fuels AND the environment.

 

Josh. Those older V8's are BETTER than that Damned Rabbit! Once it's rebuilt, There's no stopping it. I told you once, they CAN/DO run on our current Unleaded gas with NO problems! My older brother still has his 58 Chevy Pickup with a 350 V8 in it.
That Impala I told you about? Was my father's. He willed it to my older nephew in 1977. It's still running.
Take a chance.
Help us with the environment. Go Unleaded.

 

Peace Matt,

i know terethonyl lead is dangerous. so i will use 2/3 additive and 1/3 lead. i dont want to change the heads. and i plan on kicking old Besty up to speed now and then. and i need lubricant for that. i know additives work VERY well. and i will use them. but on days when i plan to hae a lead foot i will slam the pedal to the floor and need lead in there. lets say once a month lead and additive the rest additive. ok? my car still has those older tires on her and they still hold air to. they were made in the mid 70's i think. has anyone heard from WE lately?

later

the tired flower child

 

By all means remove the head yourself but do not try replacing the valve seats yourself.This is a job beyond most garages.The head needs to be sent to an engine engineering shop.Also the valve stem guides also need to be replaced.I had it done on my Land Rover.Cost$308 Australian.