Honey oil in less than 5 hours

An important word about Safety:
Nothing is more important than your safety!

Butane is Highly Flammable and ALL butane extractions should be done outdoors or in very well ventilated areas. Butane gas is heavier than air and will pool in low areas; if left to collect, butane gas becomes dangerous when it reaches 1.8% to 8.5% concentration in air.

I recommend you take every precaution possible. Wearing Safety Equipment such as eye protection and gloves. Always keep a fire extinguisher near by!

Never smoke, have an open flame, or source of ignition around when doing any kind of extraction. Avoid static build up - even a small spark in the right conditions can be dangerous.

Butane Brands:
There are 2 different types of butane that make up the most common brands of butane. Isobutane and N-Butane.

Most cheap brands use Isobutane (2-METHYL PROPANE), which is more toxic and hazardous than N-Butane. For making Honey oil, N-Butane is what we want. It extracts better and leaves very little to no residues in the oil.

Boiling Points:
ISOBUTANE: -11.7 C
N-BUTANE: -0.5 C

No source of pure N-Butane has been found. The best brand of butane I have used is Colibri Butane. I highly recommend Colibri, and you should be able to find it at most Fine Cigar and Tobacco Shoppe’s. Below is a list of other brands that are good for making Honey oil with. If you cannot find Colibri, try to find one of the butane brands listed. And by all means avoid Ronson butane, they add smell to their butane and this smell is left behind, making the oil taste very bad!

Other brands that are good to use:
NEWPORT, CORA, CTC, COLTON, DUNHILL, DAVIDOFF, FACKELMAN, WIN, NIBO, SAROME, CALOR GAS MATCH, UNILIGHT, K2, SUPERGAS, VENTTI.

Be sure to purchase the largest can of butane you can find. I use 6oz cans of Colibri. Most places only carry the little 2oz cans; these are not enough.

You will need at least 12oz of butane for every 1oz of plant material.

The Extraction Tube & Collection dish:

The extraction tube should be made of Copper water pipe, Stainless Steel, or Glass ONLY. Avoid ALL Plastics, brass, steel and galvanized steel pipe, these all can contaminate your oil or make you sick.

Some people like to build a contained extraction tube with valves to hold the butane in and let it sit in the plant material for a long time to maximize extraction, but this is unnecessary. An open ended tube (where the butane can flow through and drip into a collection dish) is the easiest to build and makes much better oil.

I use a 1.5inch by 1 foot Copper tube with One end cap secured (with tape or soldered on) to the top with a small hole for the butane nozzle. Leave the bottom Open Ended. A coffee filter, or some sort of fine screen will be attached here when the tube is filled with the plant material.

You should be able to find copper tubing at your local Hardware or Building Supply store. A long skinny tube is better than a short fat one. Avoid tubes larger than 2inches diameter.

For the collection dish I use a Pyrex dish. Avoid metal dishes as they can spark.

Honey oil is very sticky and it’s a lot easier to scrape it up from a flat bottom dish with square sides. Make sure your collection dish can hold at least 500ml of liquid.

Preparing for Extraction:

Make sure your plant material (Leaves, Trim, Stems, or Buds) is very dry (the dryer the better). Grind up the plant material into a coarse powder - you don’t want any chunks in it.

I like to freeze the plant material prior to extraction, but this is unnecessary.






Fill the extraction tube full with the powdered plant material - avoid making air pockets in the tube. I like to fill the tube a little, then pack it down and repeat until the tube is full.

Try to make sure the tube is full, but don’t pack it too much. If you don’t have enough plant material to fill your tube then try to get a smaller tube. Air pockets let the liquid butane expand and will reduce your yield a little.

After your tube is filled then you can place your screen on the bottom. A coffee filter works well. The picture shows a steel mesh screen, which would works well.

Find some way to mount the tube on a stand or use an oven mitt as the tube gets very cold.

Once the tube is filled and prepared, its time to get your collection dish, tube, butane and stand/oven mitt and venture outdoors.

Extraction:
This is the most dangerous part of the whole process. Find a safe, secluded place where you can do the extraction.

Hold or mount the tube over the collection dish and place the nozzle of the butane can in the hole you made in the end cap. Release the entire can of butane into the tube, it will take anywhere from 30 secs. to 1 min for the liquid to start to drip from the bottom of the tube into the collection dish.

If no liquid comes out of the tube and you have used an entire can - get another can and continue!

Packing the plant material into the tube too tightly can cause a build up of pressure and stop the butane from flowing. If this happens, do not let the pressure build too high (take your time)... eventually the butane will make its way out the bottom.





Continue to empty the can until it’s just releasing gas (you will hear the difference), remove the spent can and put another can in the nozzle and repeat. I usually run 3 6oz cans as my tube will hold about 1.5oz of plant material.

After the last can is emptied, I let the tube drip for another few minutes. Once the dripping has stopped, I give it a little blow in the top hole to make sure there’s no liquid butane left. The liquid in the dish should have a golden color to it.

I like to bring the collection dish indoors - be careful not to spill the butane/oil mix.

Evaporation and Curing:

I do my evaporation indoors as its fairly safe (as long as you don’t let the butane pool and you keep all sources of ignition away). I have a small fan close by to avoid butane pools.









I place my collection dish into a larger dish filled with hot tap water and watch the butane start to bubble and boil. The hot water will get cold very quickly so change it often until the butane/oil mix starts to thicken up.

Once the oil gets thicker, I let it cool in the freezer while you boil up some water. When the water is boiling, remove it from heat and put the collection dish into this water - it should start to bubble.

I repeat the cooling and heating with boiling water several times until the oil no longer bubbles.

When placing the collection dish in boiling water, always remove it from your stove. If you leave the boiling water boiling on the stove and put the collection dish in it, it could start to burn and stink up your place.

Once the oil no longer bubbles it can be smoked, but I like to further cure the oil until it becomes almost solid and melts when heated. Curing is not necessary.

To quick dry, use a heat gun to evaporate the last remnants of butane from the oil, but be careful not to burn the oil or vaporize it.

To cure the Honey oil I leave the oil in the collection dish and cover it with plastic wrap and place it in a dark place for about a week. After a week has passed the oil should be pretty solid and only becomes fluid when heated.




Handling, Storing and Smoking:

You can use a razor blade to scrape up the oil from the dish. I like to put my oil into 1 gram Glass vials for storage, you should be able to find the vials at your local head shop. It’s pretty tricky to fill the vials with oil and it will take a bit of practice.

You can leave the oil in the collection dish and scrape it as you smoke it as well, make sure you cover the dish with plastic wrap so no dust and other things get stuck in your oil.

Depending on your collection dish shape, it might be difficult to remove all the oil from the corners. I found a little tool that works very well for getting all the oil from the dish (It’s used for mixing paints and it looks like a little flexible knife that can bend to get in all the corners).

Smoking your oil

I like to smoke my oil on hot knives. Take a butter knife and stick it between the electric elements in your stove and crank up the heat. When the knife is red hot, remove the knife and use a pin to drip a drop of oil on the hot knife and suck up the smoke with some sort of tube. I use a pen tube that has its innards removed.

Ash bowls are another common way to smoke oil. Take a pipe or bong and fill the bowl with ashes from a cigarette and then drip a drop of oil on top of the pile of ashes. Then light the bowl with a lighter and smoke like you normally would.

The picture shows 2 one gram glass vials, top one is of Oil Made from Isopropyl Alcohol and the bottom on is Honey oil.

Good Luck to all and Be Safe

 

That sound really, really convoluted.

What is the advantage of "honey oil" over say regular "plant material?"

You are talking about concentrating THC out of marijuana, right?

Like I said, that sounds really convoluted.

 

He can't answer because he doesn't understand.


He just cuts and pastes. Poser!
------
"honey" oil is the collected cannabinods and other resins removed from the vegtable matter of the plant.

Done properly, it's significantly stronger than buds. However, it degrades quickly and easily once produced,

 

it seems pretty simple to me, the pictures didnt work tho. the process can be simplified by saying you fill a tube with weed, and pour butane through it, and then evapourate teh butane out of the resulting collection. but soul has given a pretty good explination so as you dont fuck up.

too bad i dont have ounces to put into tubes

can you get the link to the site where he copied it from geck? id like to see the real source thanks

 

He's gonna have to come clean by himself.


There's a hundred sites explaining the same thing- google it.

Personally, I wouldn't use butane. di-ethly ether has been my choice, although I think ellis may have suggested heptane or something once.
Many things will work, but it's really not worth it except for the novelty value.

Further, by using a lab set-up, the oil can be refluxed with sulphric acid, thereby isomerizing the CBD to THC, and THC to an even more active form. This considerably increases potency.

Also, any hash oil will turn gold if "washed" with activated charcoal, so the color is no indication of the strength.

Unless you've got weed to throw away, don't bother.

 

The original source for this material is:

http://www.overgrow.com/edge/showthread.php?threadid=339830

A quick way to find the source of a "Cut and Paste" is to take a random phrase from the posting, put it in quotes, and run it through Google.

 

Thank you, Ellis.


I'm afraid I'm a bit computer ignorant.