Didn't see this link or title in the first couple pages of threads. http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html Good to reference when talking about gardening and plant questions. Makes it easier to give a better response about culture and troubleshooting pesky problems if you give the zone. Also helps in advice of what plants will do well in your garden and landscape too. 8I
so the silly mod should make it a sticky! to see by state (I had problems with the size): http://www.growit.com/ZONES/
Oh No, so size does matter!!! That means I'm up the old creek.... To paraphrase Thoreau: She moderates best who moderates least. But more to the point, here's a USDA climate zone map of Europe. http://www.b-and-t-world-seeds.com/European.htm It might help when the New World gardeners are talking with the Old World gardeners. Peace, poor_old_dad
the arbor day foundation has its own map, which was suppressed by the bush administration because it reflects climate change. I'm going by the new map, which puts me one zone higher.
That might work for you with annuals most of the time, but when you buy perenials, you'd be wise to assume your zone didn't change. A zone 4 tree will do ok if your zone turns out to be zone 5, but the reverse isn't true.
Hi, It might help when the New World gardeners are talking with the Old World gardeners. I'm going by the new map, which puts me one zone higher. I edited out the link. Sorry, can't have links in posts. Peace, poor_old_dad
Here's one for Canada. seems US one doesn't zoom in on us up here... Canadian Plant Hardiness Zone Map Just noticing that between now and 1967, our zone here has changed from just being in Zone 2a (almost zone 1), to being fairly deep inside Zone 2b now.
Just something I thought I'd point out... I have never let zone classifications determine what I plant or not. Anything within 2 zones, is fair game to try, no matter where you are. The further out of it's ordinary zone, the less likely it will survive, but that doens't mean it won't. The property I grew up on in my later pre-teens and early teens, had a huge granite outcropping (covered over 10 acres). This had a heat sink effect on the property. The bigger storms moved around us, it never got as hot in the summer or as cool in the winter as places just a mile away. The specific micro-climate of your property has more to do with what you can grow, then any map ever will. That is all before taking into account that you can artificially raise your zone. One example; Build a stone wall running east and west, and you can plant things on the south side of the wall that are at least 2 zones higher then you are rated. That's not even getting into the standard growing seasin extenders, starting seeds indoors ahead of time, using cold frames etc etc... The maps are just guidelines... not 'set in stone' facts...
I think of these as guidelines, but I'm moving from "hey, it's October, when is first snow?" to "What do you mean you never scrape your windscreen in winter?" (denver, CO to East Bay, CA) So I am a full blown newbie again. I like the idea of the map so I have some clue my first season.
You may find the Köppen climate classification better suits. Köppen climate classification - Wikipedia
